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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
    2,243
    if your aerial stops but continues to make a clunk clunk noise I would say there is either a bend in the aerial and/ or the aerial mast and rope may need changing.
    It wouldn't be a big job to replace. I have to do it myself actually.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Keiraville, NSW
    Posts
    949
    Try cleaning it first - sometimes it can lock-up due to grease and dirt. Also confirm that the aerial housing has not moved such that the straight path is not straight. My old Mercedes would frequently get bent from large insects etc. The WK is fairing much better.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    243
    Cheers grange250

    Gave it a clean and oil today and its working a treat!

    Again, thanks for the tip.

    Cheers, Damo.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    243
    Cheers mate, just gave it a wipe and put a bit of oil on it and seems to be working ok.
    Thanks for the reply.

    Cheers, Damo.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    243
    Quote Originally Posted by HSVGTS125 View Post
    if your aerial stops but continues to make a clunk clunk noise I would say there is either a bend in the aerial and/ or the aerial mast and rope may need changing.
    It wouldn't be a big job to replace. I have to do it myself actually.
    Thanks for the aerial info HSVGTS125

    Problem solved.

    Cheers, Damo.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    37
    Hi guys, very good reading this thread.
    I have an issue you may even able to help with,

    My engine overheated badly when we drove to Sydney a couple of months ago.
    We called the road service, NRMA and he was very thorough at checking the whole cooling system.
    It was short about 6 liters of fluid, not good , but the system end 30psi for about 20 min no worries.
    His thoughts were, if it has been slowly loosing fluid (as I only check the reservoir) and hasn't been taking it back correctly, this can occur when driving At freeway speed the engine will remain cool, and whenl in Sydney traffic will over heat. Makes sense..
    Topped up, and on our way.
    Back home we had the cooling system checked by our own mechanic and found no problem??
    Our only assumption can be a minor head gasket breach mainly when hot that is using fluid.
    Why it's not drawing fluid back from the reservoir I don't know.
    All hoses have been checked and all sensors tested. The overflow hoses are all good to the reservoir does hold fluid and the hose from the radiator dose go into the fluid in the reservoir.
    Just giving as much info as I can!
    It currently now uses about 500 ml per 100 km.
    Any ideas would be appreciated
    Cheers mitch.
    It's a VZ LS2 with about 130k
    Last edited by kme023; 07-09-2014 at 05:49 PM.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,045
    Are you sure it's definitely not leaking anywhere? It's a lot more common to have a split in the plastic tank than a head gasket issue on these cars.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    1,038
    Re overheating.
    Maybe radiator cap.
    I had similar situation about 2 years or so back with my senator (LS2), turned out to be a faulty radiator cap.
    The suction side wasn't working properly as that little spring loaded plunger wasn't sealing properly.
    Mine didn't overheat or at least it didn't register on the gauge.
    Firstly I noticed a red stain around the bottom of my overflow bottle so checked the overflow and it was full to the point of pouring out.
    Checked radiator and yes was down so topped up kept watching and a week or so later it had overflowed again.
    So basically it was pushing coolant out when hot (normal) but not sucking it back in when cold.
    Fitted a new cap and that was that.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    37
    Thanks for the replys

    The radiator cap has been replaced, and the coolant has now got a red additive to make it a lot easier to find a leak .
    I'm yet to find any trace of liquid from under the car or around the engine at all . The reservoir dosent seemy to go up at all.

    I might actually try another cap anyway. It's cheap way to rule that out, or not!
    Cheers

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    134
    Quote Originally Posted by MR323 View Post
    Steering Knock - After long drives, or high operating temperatures, some VT's have an audible clunk in the front end, that may be felt through the steering wheel on turns. A possible cause can be excessive movement of the inner tie rod end of the steering rack. A revised tierod was introduced into new steering racks early in 2001.
    Power Steering Rack up to vin # L492504 (12/08/99) - Part number 92057321

    Power Steering Rack from vin # L492505 (12/08/99) - Part number 92092815

    Variable Effort Power Steering Rack (Option NV7) - Part number 92092816

    Radius rod bushes - The radius rod (aka strut rod aka strut bar) is the bar that joins the front lower control arm to the front of the engine cross member. The front bush that bolts to the engine cross member is hydraulic. In other words it is oil filled. These are quite common wear points in VT's, as the rubber splits and perishes. New ones are relatively simple to fit. The bushes on the rear of the radius rod (into the lower control arm) commonly wear as well. As these bushes wear, the lower control arm can move rearward during braking (sometimes dramatically... 10mm is not uncommon) and a clunk is heard. These will affect wheel alignment.

    Front Inner control arm bushes - The front lower control arm is bushed to the engine cross member. The bushes commonly wear, which allows the inner of the lower control arm to move forward and rearward, similar to the radius rod bushes. These will affect wheel alignment.

    Gen III Air Conditioning rumble - Some VT's may have a rumble type noise coming from the dash area when the Air Conditioning is on. A possible cause can be the TX valve of the Air Conditioning Unit. A revised Eaton Brand TX valve (92116220) was introduced January 2002, and a further revision was introduced in April 2002, with the use of a TGK Brand TX valve (92117402) as used in VX V6's from April 2002 onwards.

    Climate Control Thud - Series II VT Berlina's and Calais' (10/1999 onwards) with Climate Control may have a light thud noise when the ignition is turned off, or intermittently, during mode changes. The cause of this noise can be the rapid closing of the previously open mode door. The rate of closure is controlled by air entry into the vacuum solenoid module. The vacuum solenoid module was revised in VT series II models, and had a 6 solenoid vacuum module assembly instead of the earlier 5 solenoid style. An additional foam pad was needed for the 6 solenoid vacuum module to reduce the thud, and is placed over the existing foam pads in the vacuum solenoid module. Revised six pack solenoids (with foam) were introduced mid 2001.

    Climate Control Solenoid Foam Pad - Part number 92144689

    Some early VT's with the 5 solenoid vacuum module may also suffer from similar thud noises. A vacuum delay kit was introduced to reduce thuds.

    Vacuum delay kit - Part number 92144219


    Air Conditioning Vibration (Gen III) - In some VT's, a vibration may be felt inside the vehicle while idling in Drive, with air conditioning on. A possible cause could be the plastic end tanks of the radiator contacting the mounting brackets on the radiator support panel. It may also be the radiator retaining clips contacting the plastic end tanks, instead of just the locating rubber. Careful bending of the support brackets will increase clearances (3mm suggested minimum clearance between mounting bracket and tank. 1mm suggested minimum clearance between retaining clips and tank).

    Air Conditioning Vibration (5.0ltr V - Some early VT V8's may vibrate or rumble when the air conditioning is on, and the engine is around 1500rpm's. A support brace was added in late 1998 to improve compressor mounting rigidity.
    A/C Compressor Brace - Part number 92078943

    Air conditioning belt tensioner 5.0ltr V8 - The air conditioning tensioner pulley bearing can fail and seize, which increases belt heat and reduces belt grip. This can restrict air conditioning output. These pulleys should be checked if the air con output is inadequate. Belt condition and tension should also be checked.

    Now for VX's
    I have a rattle coming from the air vent on the dash .


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