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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8

    Is fuel pump upgrade needed for gts?

    Hi all,
    I recently had my GenF2 gts upgraded. We put harrop cold air pod, full twin 3" exhaust with extractors, 1000cc injectors, cam, double valve springs & push rods, 18% overdrive balancer pulley and 12 litre reservoir.
    The day it was tuned was 30+ degrees so full power run couldn't be done. Cold start tune was done next morning.
    Car is going back after new years for final tune and full power run.
    We are going to put a lid spacer and smaller supercharger pulley on before final the tune. Also considering an interchiller as intake temps are now much higher, especially in traffic. My mechanic was assured fuel pump does not need to be upgraded, however with what I've read online I'm not convinced.

    Can anyone help with knowledge or experience of going down this route and how the fuel system holds up. Although I am chasing power, hoping for somewhere around 420 to 450 rwkw, I want the motor to be safe.

    Thanks guys

    PS. Yes I have read the GTSR fuel system thread. Was just hoping for a more specific answer with my current mods taken into account
    Last edited by GTS575 Love; 29-12-2019 at 01:32 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,780
    From what I have read YES. Your new ? larger injectors should not be helping much without more fuel at WOT! from a BAP or similar.
    I did 18% overdrive, a full pacemaker coated system in mat black with bi modals welded onto the PM system, with high flow cats, a great looking and sounding system, huge straight through K&N pod, thermostat. (This was a 530 pack) exhaust and no injectors.

    Walkinshaw do injectors and no exhaust for their 530 pack.

    I then added a 12l resevor, spacers plate, 16 hoses (they look great), chiller-costs some coin to buy and fit, and you need the A/C on, however if you are going 530 plus I would get a chiller.

    I had my tune eased back a bit with what I call my stage two, now to your question, my injectors were okay, same for the fuel but both at their limits, so I added some good tested injectors, about $1k and the fuel pump voltage BAP, in short when needed it increases the voltage up to 17V. The BAP was about $600 and I got some great advice on parts when ordering the chiller gear from Kirk.

    Now my LSA, I believe is well within its limits, as for the dyno numbers, as the dynos were different who knows.

    After stage two for me it was worth getting the 850kg load rated KOYA SF5's not the new SF13's they are rated at about 690kg load, with some 275 45 18 MT SR, KOYA $450 ea, MT $600 ea, that fitted Ball. My Conti 295/35/20 are average, I should have gone Michelin's....

    Final part was an nGauge, you want the fans on full, that's bloody noisy, so I went Valet tune, Stockish tune, Drag 1 and Drag 2 tunes. That was you press a few buttons and within 5 minutes you have your tune changed. The nGAUGE was $600, $730 with the tunes I wanted, and fitted.

    If I was starting again, and wanted to visit the drags, as I do, I would do a ton of research on doing what most say not to do, OPEN the engine, what's the issue, is the mechanic going to leave a shifter inside the engine or torque up the heads wrong! and bad tune would be worse! I would ask about heads valves, blower screw enlarging.
    I'm still sorting out my start and settings at 11.50 at 189, have done a few 199.7's after bad starts and slower times?
    My next runs I will try more tyre PSI and a slightly longer burnout.
    Cheers
    Last edited by Andrew_02; 30-12-2019 at 03:39 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    5,160
    Anything more than 14% overdrive on the stock camshaft with the stock injectors (smaller holes to leak less fuel) and fuel pressure drops off.

    So yes if youíre at 18% and with a camshaft and you plan on running even more pulley youíre already out of fuel pressure and itís only going to be worse when you turn it up.

    2014 HSV VF GTS
    2017 HSV GTSR
    http://www.facebook.com/ForcedInductionInterchillers
    Australia's Fastest 6.2L 1900 LSA VF GTS with a Stock Bottom End
    9.700 @143.14mph 17/July/2017
    V-Box Results 0-100km/h in 2.47sec

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,892
    The day it was tuned was 30+ degrees so full power run couldn't be done. Cold start tune was done next morning.

    Car is going back after new years for final tune and full power run.

    My mechanic was assured fuel pump does not need to be upgraded, however with what I've read online I'm not convinced.
    Who's tuning the thing? The temps will get high but at 30į ambient they should still be able to do some sort of WOT power runs to tune it.
    They should also be logging fuel pressure and be able to tell you at this point that it is dropping and you need to do something with the pump.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    VIC
    Posts
    2,286
    Quote Originally Posted by white_lie View Post
    They should also be logging fuel pressure and be able to tell you at this point that it is dropping and you need to do something with the pump.
    yep thats what to look out for, the 1000cc inj will be more then enough to compensate for a lowering fuel pressure issue so hope they keep an eye on it and do whats needed properly

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8
    Thank you very much for all the feedback guys. One thing to note is I am not interested in doing 1/4 mile runs. I simply want a very tough street car that will handle being driven hard on a regular basis

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Keiraville, NSW
    Posts
    1,057
    Being driven hard on the streets will end up with many flashing red and vlue lights. Even a Grange with the good highway cruising Diff can get those lights interested.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,780
    Quote Originally Posted by GTS575 Love View Post
    Thank you very much for all the feedback guys. One thing to note is I am not interested in doing 1/4 mile runs. I simply want a very tough street car that will handle being driven hard on a regular basis
    Cheers in that case good tyres a chiller and fuel card. It must sound great.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    222
    A chiller for street use? You're suggesting he forks out the $$$ for an upgrade that's purely designed for keeping IATs in check during multiple quarter mile runs? And when exactly will one ever be in such a situation on the street? Sorry but thats a waste of money IMO...

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,780
    Correct, however the intake would get very hot in Melbourne traffic. It's not great kws for cash but if you can afford a chiller with those mods I would.
    The nGAUGE show how fast and how hot the intake temp rises. How often are OTR CAI added for colder air and in many cases cover part of the radiator and heat the air. That's why I'm very happy with actives intake system.
    Last edited by Andrew_02; 06-01-2020 at 01:47 AM.







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