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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    457

    Repairing plastic engine covers

    Hi folks,

    Has anyone successfully repaired the mounting points on the plastic engines covers? By plastic, I also refer to any of the materials. My original set of Callaway 300 covers continue to crack around the base of the mounting nuts so the top of the cover lifts away and starts to vibrate which is often when first spotted.

    I've repaired one or two, one I ground a washer to size and dropped it down inside and then built up the base using Liquid steel type putty that sets hard, or used 2-part epoxy for those that started to crack but didn't go further.

    They seemed to have worked, so far. Just noticed a new one which was previously fine. So now I have to do it all again. Perhaps there's a better way, like not only epoxy up but add a small sheet of hard setting something on the underside with a ho le in it, to support the wh ole area, not sure.

    I'd imagine the problem is even worse with some of the cheap covers that only have 2 studs, like they've used the one-piece cover brackets and gone separate covers.

    It's already a weak area so I need to not only repair but strengthen. Along with some sort of patch underneath, perhaps a slightly domed shape patch that moulds inside the mounting lugs and takes in part of the inner walls but not visible when painted.

    Any ideas? Thanks


    Is there a setting on this forum that censors naughty words? It's set to ridiculous, I've had to edit about 4 of mine and they weren't even interesting. Like wh ole ? Seriously?!
    Last edited by Aus78Formula; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:43 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,762
    Mine are the same. Broke many many years ago, did a similar repair job like you with a washer fixed on the inside which stops the h0le in the plastic chewing out but not ideal. I haven't had mine on for years so never bothered to fix them properly but everytime I see them in the shed it annoys me.

    And yes, the text filter is out of control!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    457
    As usual, things are much worse when inspected. Not just cracked but entire pieces missing. These are the worst, but every single **** has hairline cracks at least.

    So obviously, a fibregl*** patch won't be enough for those with the base missing. I'll need some sort of cup washer to create a new lug base and then fibregl*** over that and perhaps add a small washer inside. At the same time it can't be too thick or the studs will be too short to secure.

    thumbnail_18470 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

    thumbnail_18471 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

    thumbnail_18469 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

    thumbnail_18468 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

    thumbnail_18467 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr


    White Lie, does your C4B use the standard LS1/LS6 oil filler pipe or is it taller? My regular LS1 was fitted with the 300 covers when I got it and the oil cap was flush and unusable. I had to slightly bend the brackets on the front down to allow access, strangely, these are still good mounting points.

    LQ9 taller oil filler Ls1 Ls6 shorter by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,115
    Duramix .... it's available from your auto paint and crash supply parts agent ... it's a two part plastic repair mix that's pre-loaded into 2 separate tubes then as you squeeze it out the 2 parts is mixed together in a disposable snout ... I think it's a 3M product ... give Google a try
    GR

    Bite off more than you can chew .... then chew like hell to you've eaten it!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,762
    Pretty sure it's the shorter neck. The cap sat just above the engine cover, could easily get it on/off. Are the mounts different for the 300 covers compared to the turtle shell?

    The covers look exactly like mine. Some are completely flogged out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    457
    Thanks Guys, will check that out.

    Mine has the existing turtle shell cover bracket rails in place, plus the lower C4B bracket rails added. As far as I know that's how they were, the brackets couldn't be mounted lower at all to drop the covers. They are mounted over the coil brackets as per normal, could drop the height of a speed-nut if they were combined. Never found diagrams or info on that one to compare.







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