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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,868
    Depends how much boost you want to throw at it. 10% isn't much but more and you'll need injectors and a boost a pump so it starts getting costly....but it will easily run in the 11's with a decent increase in boost.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,757
    Well I'm lost now trying to educate myself on extractors that must be bent where you don't want bends IOT fit the engine bay. So some well tuned S/S ceramic coated inside and out? extractors tuned to provide max power at a set RPM, too larger pipes slow the gases and you go down in scavenging effect/power. Once the engine gets more air in and out the 1900 blower PSI will drop (I did not know that), so a boost of, again I guess, 16% increase will push the boost back up to about 10 real PSI (I can see I don't have 9 now standard on the EDI gauges) and should not need changes to injectors or fuel lines/pump. After watching over an hour of how the exhaust tube length/bends and ceramic coating to reduce the heat are calculated I can see why a good set of pipes are costly. Another guess this setup may take a while to tune. I am now not so interested in a power number or time, more so some easy mods that are high end quality and all suit the engine power level. cheers

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew_02 View Post
    Well I'm lost now trying to educate myself on extractors that must be bent where you don't want bends IOT fit the engine bay. So some well tuned S/S ceramic coated inside and out? extractors tuned to provide max power at a set RPM, too larger pipes slow the gases and you go down in scavenging effect/power. Once the engine gets more air in and out the 1900 blower PSI will drop (I did not know that), so a boost of, again I guess, 16% increase will push the boost back up to about 10 real PSI (I can see I don't have 9 now standard on the EDI gauges) and should not need changes to injectors or fuel lines/pump. After watching over an hour of how the exhaust tube length/bends and ceramic coating to reduce the heat are calculated I can see why a good set of pipes are costly. Another guess this setup may take a while to tune. I am now not so interested in a power number or time, more so some easy mods that are high end quality and all suit the engine power level. cheers
    This is where a good shop and tuner come into their own.
    GTSR Maloo

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,868
    Speak to Ed. He's been playing with these things long enough and can offer you a range of options, I'm sure you'll be happy with the end result.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    1,219
    I did Harrop intake, FII lid spacer and tune on my first round of mods. I reckon thatís perfect for a mild upgrade. Nothing wrong with your exhaust


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1994 VR GTS
    2014 Gen-F GTS
    2017 VF2 SS-V Redline Hackwagon

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    411
    My first round of mods was Harrop intake, 18% crank pulley and tune. Went from 330rwkw to 380rwkw and went like the clappers for how much the outlay way (approx. $2k installed and tuned).

    Went back to them not too long after for a set of injectors, lid spacer and a set of ceramic coated pacemaker 1 7/8" headers (running no cats) on the standard cat back exhaust, and this made 420rwkw after this lot.

    Knowing what I know now (thanks mainly to this forum) and from my own experience, id look at just doing the "stage one" harrop intake, 14% crank pulley, lid spacer, tune.

    Will make enough power to run 11's EASY, cost bugger all, not changing too many parts (less headaches), no cop trouble, etc.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    178
    To be transparent I am a chiller buyer. No other support from Kirk, mixed skepticism/respect from my mechanic/tuner. So much has been developed for inter-chilling the VF (minimal car cutting), waiting on the shelf, while a Chiller is an expense, it allows a larger tuning window (advance timing for hp at low IAT2) and with high IAT2, detonation protection. And you won't have to wait for a cold day to run your best time.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,757
    PERTH WA question.

    Moving to WA does my 14 month old GTSR need to go over the pits IOT get WA plates (back)
    I have 295 tyres and plan to do some mods, that are legal, but I'd rather do a local inspection check prior
    so save any bull.
    The RTA website says, you may need the pits, most other states TELL you, i.e. car over 3 years etc. WA RTA does not
    seem to know their own policy!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,868
    You should just be able to go in to a Transport Dept office and transfer it over to WA plates. You only need to have owned the car for 12 months to not require an inspection...unless it's changed in the past year or so. We did it around 18 months ago with a car on Vic plates.
    The website tells you the complete opposite!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,757
    Thanks and agree the website goes against what I heard. Cheers







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