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  1. #1

    Better disc rotors for VX w/343 and Harrops

    Hi Guys,

    My VX has the Premium brake upgrade, so 343/32 fronts and 315/18 rears with the Harrop 4-pots. I must have them machined every 2-3 months without fail, for warping and shudder. It starts about 1 month after and I wait until it gets terrible. Although mostly highway use I do get the occasional city peak-hour crawl where the jerking to a stop really gets to you.

    I've been through 2 sets of the DBA T3 1-piece rotors, the last were slightly different somehow but performed the same. When I got the car several years ago it still had its factory cross-drilled rotors, heavily rusted and with a large lip forming around where the brake pad stopped...but not shudder, perfect. I didn't even get them machined, simply refreshed the lot.

    So what gives? Are the DBA 2-piece 5000 rotors any better...not in general, just at warping in such short time over a few thousand km cruising? Or is there something else? The price jumps up steeply from where I am now so don't want the same result.
    Last edited by Aus78Formula; 14-06-2018 at 03:11 AM.
    1978 Firebird Formula 6.6L W50
    2002 HSV Clubsport R8 255

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Perth, WA
    I've got the 5000's on the front, not a single issue, they're a great rotor. Were cheaper than replacing with AP rotors and reusing my original hats. Once you buy the complete 5000's, you can replace just the outer part which makes it a little cheaper but they are a better rotor than the T3's.

    Have you checked Harrop for their rotors? Probably a better price than the 5000's and would be the same quality as the originals.

  3. #3
    Hmm didn't think Harrop would still supply early models, didn't look either though. Naturally, I was worried about continuing with DBA even on an upgraded setup which had little to do with the actual issues on a daily driver. The Harrop calipers seem prone to squealing and issues too so could all be part of same frustrating issue.
    thanks again, Craig, will look into it.

    Last edited by Aus78Formula; 13-06-2018 at 09:09 PM.
    1978 Firebird Formula 6.6L W50
    2002 HSV Clubsport R8 255

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Western Victoria
    It might be the brake pads you are using causing your problem, along with not being aggressive enough on your brakes. You need to give them a hard time occasionally to burn off the residue (I forget the technical term) that builds up on them. This residue transfers to the rotor causing high spots which you feel as shuddering.
    Don't be afraid to empty everything that is loose out of the cabin and boot(potential missiles), go out and get the brakes actually smoking.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Keiraville, NSW
    Can't remember the shop name but they have pads in "different colours" for speed rating etc. Got 343 rotors for the WK from them - good price too. No squealing at all and no warping; no shudder in the car. 343 used to be a difficult size for pads and rotors, very little use. Track pad was easy to get but a street pad required ordering up to three months in advance of need. The race pad was basically responsible for the rotor's warping - rapid heating and cooling in the rotor. Rotors also wore out much faster because of the harder pad.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Better discs rotors for VX w/343 and Harrops

    I went through this years ago and multiple shops cannot diagnose it

    Everyone said its pads or rotors or not machined correctly and they were wrong
    Spent like $2000 trying multiple pads and rotors and machining

    Your calipers need rebuilt new pistons and seals

    The pistons will have worn spots on it causing them to slightly stick and not release correctly

    Aps frankston got mine sorted never had an issue after that

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    I've recently changed pads on my harrops ended up going with EBC Red Stuff, as my rotors were still good, are the genuine HSV ones as they were replaced just before i bought the car. Me personally i always run a softer pad instead of eating rotors. When i have to change rotors was looking at the T3's as only heard good things about them. I did a cruise and track work on the weekend with HSV Fest and its got rid of any squeal my brakes had!!

  8. #8
    Calipers have been rebuilt twice, they now use EBC Red Stuff also, the only pads that don't squeal fulltime that I've tried. I also have a steep hill near my house that I regularly drive hard down with multiple hard stops to clean up any glazing, it can't do a thing once the shudder hints at developing, after that you only bust your leg.
    1978 Firebird Formula 6.6L W50
    2002 HSV Clubsport R8 255

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    I've been using DBA5000 2 piece rotors & EBC Red pads on my Senator with AP 362 fronts for nearly 2 years with lots of City stop start driving and no problems.
    Besides performance and looks the DBA5000's are over 2kg lighter than the 362 one piece AP's.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Harrop HSV brakes are very common for pad squeal and virtually the only HSV upgrade people ring me with problems. I would look very carefully at the brake pads causing the issue and i know other people run EBC Redstuff and have no issue's but we have sen countless times these pads and a few others causing the shudder problem. As mentioned before there can be residue on the rotor face and thats pretty much what your machining off when you machine the rotors. The other issue we haven't pin pointed but believe it has to do with heat and the ceramic technology used because we see another well know brand have the same issues.
    I have a thought and i would like to help you solve this so give me a few hours and i will see what i can do for you as i would like you to keep the DBA rotors on the car and possibly trial some new pads for me.

    Matt Pearce
    Race Brakes Sydney
    PH 02 9609 1101

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