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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    2,246
    Quote Originally Posted by Surfnturf View Post
    LSA engine has an Oil Level Sensor and a oil pressure release valve ,nothing else.
    its in with the level sensor soon as u unplug it u get a oil temp error also, and the ecu's have an actual pin in for the oil temp sensor e38/67, i never believed it myself till i done some testing with my E1 got engine to operating temps and oil to 100c then done an oil change dumped it and refilled within bout 10 mins and turn key on and new oil wasnt even showing temp on gauge yet then started engine and ran for a bit and it started to show temp, if it were just a calculation oil temp would have stayed at 100c, also i can log both the actual and calc in hpt scanner they are different the calc shows about 5-7 higher then actual

  2. #62
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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by adzy_b View Post
    So further playing with it I had chose the wrong ecu hahaha, chose e67 and found way more pid’s. There is still an issue with the trans temp sensor (if it has one?) it’s picking it up but I can’t choose Celsius and it’s just stuck at 32F not moving at all. Have picked up all other sensors though. Would you think it’s better to monitor alternator voltage (car running) or battery voltage (not running)? I have it set to alternator currently.
    u should be able to change the readings to F or C for any of them, if ur manual u wont have a trans temp but auto should have one if its stuck on 32f sounds like u dont have one maby its why u cant change to Celsuis, yea just alternator voltage is fine

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth, W.A.
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    76
    Quote Originally Posted by 07GTS View Post
    u should be able to change the readings to F or C for any of them, if ur manual u wont have a trans temp but auto should have one if its stuck on 32f sounds like u dont have one maby its why u cant change to Celsuis, yea just alternator voltage is fine
    Yeah she’s auto, sounds like it may not have one? That’s a shame really wanted to be able to monitor it, can anyone on here with an auto LSA running the nGauge check if they can pick up their trans temp? Hopefully I’ve just missed something.
    2016 VF Clubsport LSA - FI Interchiller, Lid spacer, 12L res. Best time = 12.171 @115.26mph 1.836 60' on a street tyre.

  4. #64
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    Mar 2011
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    auto should have it the trans controller needs it to monitor, are u picking a vehicle or just scanning for ALL GM pids ?

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth, W.A.
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by 07GTS View Post
    auto should have it the trans controller needs it to monitor, are u picking a vehicle or just scanning for ALL GM pids ?
    That’s what I thought. I’m picking e67 ecu and GM ALL pid’s. It’s the only parameter that isn’t coming up.
    2016 VF Clubsport LSA - FI Interchiller, Lid spacer, 12L res. Best time = 12.171 @115.26mph 1.836 60' on a street tyre.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    403
    Hey guys just a quick one, does anyone know why I have been seeing much higher IAT2's?? and what checks I can do to see whats happening?? My car normally sits around 10c over ambient, but lately its at least 25c to 30c higher than ambient......

    I don't drive my car often anymore as I bought another car, and I took it out last night and it was a very cool night of only 9c and general driving around my IAT was sitting at 30c-35c and after a quick roll on in 2nd gear it was around 65c, and only ever dropped to 40c after that... I use the NGuage to monitor my temps every time I drive the car, and its definitely a lot higher than im used to... and its been doing this last couple times ive driven the car.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,737
    Check the pump is still running - but given the temps are not thru the roof, I'd say it is. May be a sign that the intercooler brick is collapsing which they do, even on stock cars. You can pull the lid off the supercharger and check the end of the intercooler is still flat. You can get them repaired and braced/strengthened if it has collapsed.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    403
    hmmmm bugger okay thanks for your help whitelie, il have to do it when I get some free time I guess... bit of an awkward job getting the back four bolts off the blower lid with that plastic trimming cutting your hand to pieces ahaha.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth, W.A.
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by ASD14 View Post
    hmmmm bugger okay thanks for your help whitelie, il have to do it when I get some free time I guess... bit of an awkward job getting the back four bolts off the blower lid with that plastic trimming cutting your hand to pieces ahaha.
    --------------------------------------------

    Hey bro remove the cowling to gain access to the rear lid bolts, it's not a big job at all and makes it soooooo much easier.

    Pop the wiper nut plastic caps, think they're a 15mm underneath, then close the bonnet just where it's resting on the catch and then move the wiper blades into their vertical position like an 'L' shape and put one hand on the blade and one hand on the arm in front of your bonnet so when it comes up it hits your hand and not your paint, and then start wiggling it side to side and it will come up, then go back to your bay and remove all the plastic popper-clip things on the plastic weather cowl. Where your plastic weather cowling is split roughly through the centre just pull the rubber stripping from the drivers side (shortest distance) past that line, and then push up at the split. Once you remove that you will see a large aluminium cowling underneath, it has I think about 7-8 bolts which the majority need to be removed with the bonnet resting on the catch again. This leaves you with heaps of access!

    I fitted my lid spacer without removing the cowling and it took me way longer than it should have, I wouldn't fit another one without removing the cowling first.
    2016 VF Clubsport LSA - FI Interchiller, Lid spacer, 12L res. Best time = 12.171 @115.26mph 1.836 60' on a street tyre.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    5,099
    Sounds like the intercooler pump is either off or running intermittently this is why we made a reservoir so the pump wont turn off by placing 12L of head pressure on the pump since the pump is load sensitive. This also results in colder IAT2's at cruise and at WOT.


    2014 HSV VF GTS
    2017 HSV GTSR
    http://www.facebook.com/ForcedInductionInterchillers
    Australia's Fastest 6.2L 1900 LSA VF GTS with a Stock Bottom End
    9.700 @143.14mph 17/July/2017
    V-Box Results 0-100km/h in 2.47sec







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