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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    FNQLD
    Posts
    1,536

    Car storage prep advise

    I know this has been talked about a few times id like to get some facts from those that store good cars long term.

    Six months plus: in particular fuel/tyres/battery/jack stands, maybe for one year at a time.

    1. don't tell people where the cars going!

    2. clean the car big time clay bar, and perfect inside. small almost unseen marks could cause serious damage if left long term.

    3. use some pest baits around the car (some "baits" are good for very large pests)

    4 fuel[U][/U] not so easy plastic fuel tank, son tells me to empty it, deso would grow fungus petrol not as bad but
    it could cause big issues with the injectors, I guess run the car low 5l or less, and then use a 10l jerry on start up.
    Whipper blades, try to chock them just of the windscreen with a small piece of timber

    5 battery, remove from the car (wires only if its gel) for safety remove it place on timber high and dry and connect to a good??? trickle charger, but how long is that good for???

    6 plug the exhaust / intakes cabin air inlet if it has one accessible.

    7 get someone to drive the car every month. not going to happen.

    8 keep the car registered?

    9 keep the car insured for low kms, (saves a few dollars now days not hundreds)

    10 change all fluids on start up (not that keen on throwing money away

    11 tyres******* inflate to 50 PSI

    has anyone had flat spots or tyres go down lots over 12 months or so? tyre value $2000, damage from jack stands gone wrong, guess I would have a heart attack!

    12 tyres chock the car?? how in a small garage could this end up doing more damage than good where do the jack stands go and where does the car lift go IOT lift the full front end then rear end. ( talking VF )

    13 I see this costing $3000 in fees annual, and car loss in value, is not relevant even if it was $10k per year.

    14 average cars even new, just sell the car.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    FNQLD
    Posts
    1,536
    Replying to my own post, okay its not an exciting thread.

    A. leave the fuel tank full to prevent moisture?
    B. stuff jacking the car up the tyres will be fine and you will do more damage trying to place four jack stands under the car plus you will end up breaking the mrc sensors and other stuff, shocks are not meant to hand long term.
    C. just disconnect the battery and it will be fine if in good condition.
    D. damage, to be very carful of, is the air conditioning system / brake pistons / radiator coolant.
    E. reading up on this the biggest error is how long the car is driven before storage, that final drive should be a minimum of 15 minutes at good speed, not around town for a few km to prevent moisture building up in the engine/exhaust.
    F. a good 10 minute idle every few weeks is a big fail, better to leave the car. Car collectors/classic racers and Canadian type temperatures see cars often left for 6 months plus every year. In saying that ill bet the brake pistons and a/c seals don't last as long.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    33
    Hello Andrew

    from experience (it wasn't a Holden but a JZA80).

    Keep the fuel tank full or keep it as low as possible - upon returning the vehicle to service add a small amount of methylated spirits (it will absorb any moisture in the fuel) to the existing contents and top it up with 20 litres of "fresh" fuel - either way put in a fuel stabiliser - you'll want to drive the car very sedately until you get very low on the current fuel in the tank.

    The issue with jacking the car up is the suspension is no longer in compression - so if you put the car on jack stands you'll want to put the suspension in some form of compression.

    Remove the battery from the car - regardless if it's sealed or gel.

    When the vehicle returns to service - flush brake fluid (it's hygroscopic) and the coolant. I can't speak for the air con - I guess run it pre shutdown and run it when you bring the car back into service?

    E > it'll get moisture in it over time anyway, but it's sound advice - go for a good run rather than stop/start.

    F > I didn't run my car at the time for up to 12 months, and when i did i got it up to temp then dumped/replaced the oil.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    83
    I don't know about modern cars but with vintage for long term storage you fill the motor up with oil right to the filler cap,drain before starting of cause.







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