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Thread: New to HSV

  1. #11
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    Apr 2011
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    Far, that's one way to sort out a rough idle $1000 for a reflash, I recon
    it had a good tune if that's what your talking about.

    why not start with stuff like plugs, are they clean? leads coils, guess its not to do with fuel however a few things that are very minor will give you grief when the engine is cold. Is the exhaust stuffed, does the thermostat work properly okay that will not cause a rough idle on its own, but start with the easy and cheap stuff first. air cleaner, even and oil change.

    get a tune then find out the exhaust and plugs are stuffed and you will need another tune.
    You mention carbon clean yes that's the type of stuff I would sort out first then if it needs a tune go for it..

    what needs a carbon clean, in the 90's it was the idle control unit, the part that connects the machanics to a main computer
    how does it idle when you put the lights on when its warming up does the idle drop down or does it stay smooth, I remember with lights on once I selected reverse the engine would stall.

    A good long run with some high revs once warm with a tank of new 98 RON also can do wonders, but will not help if you need a carbon clean.


    hope you get it running fine without big dollars, how many kms has the engine done.
    Last edited by Andrew_02; 2 Weeks Ago at 05:56 PM.

  2. #12
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    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew_02 View Post
    Far, that's one way to sort out a rough idle $1000 for a reflash, I recon
    it had a good tune if that's what your talking about.
    I'm curious as to how you know the state/quality of the tune? When did it have a good tune? When it was stock?
    He's just recently the car, it had the work done before he bought it so no one really knows what the tune is like. Sure, it may be one of those simple/little things but if it only plays up when cold and has done it the entire time he's had the car, given its had a cam installed, I'm pretty confident the tune is rubbish.

    It would be a lot easier to take it back to the place that did the work and getting them to make it idle properly but if they can't even do that, what faith do you have in the rest of it?

    He doesn't need to drop $1000 straight up on a retune either. A good tuner will be able to look at the tune and see the quality of it, or if it's locked, log it and get a fair idea. From there they can suggest a fix and if that's a retune or a set of plugs then so be it but you can still waste a lot of money shooting in the dark changing plugs, leads, coils, filters etc etc only to find it is the tune.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    I'd like to think whoever did cam 228/232, OTR , walkinshaw exhaust would know how to tune it....... you don't just install this stuff and drive away surely? Anyway it's going in next Friday to get looked at, I'll let you know the outcome .

  4. #14
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    just have to go to a tuner they can look at the airflow, TPS, timing and adaptive idle advance ect, they will tell u from a cold start what it needs to keep running, prob just need more airflow in the colder ect temps by the sounds of it

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vzr1 View Post
    I'd like to think whoever did cam 228/232, OTR , walkinshaw exhaust would know how to tune it....... you don't just install this stuff and drive away surely? Anyway it's going in next Friday to get looked at, I'll let you know the outcome .
    You'd be very surprised!
    Not all tuners have the same level of talent

  6. #16
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    Aug 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by white_lie View Post
    You'd be very surprised!
    Not all tuners have the same level of talent
    Yep!!! 110% I agree. Some just tune the PE table. Don't touch the VE tables, closed and open loop etc. No cold start. It can be quite disappointing sometimes.

    Some people aren't so lucky. Then some tunes are locked. The list goes on...
    2016 VF II SSV-R Wagon with LSA Blower

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by white_lie View Post
    I'm curious as to how you know the state/quality of the tune? When did it have a good tune? When it was stock?
    He's just recently the car, it had the work done before he bought it so no one really knows what the tune is like. Sure, it may be one of those simple/little things but if it only plays up when cold and has done it the entire time he's had the car, given its had a cam installed, I'm pretty confident the tune is rubbish.

    It would be a lot easier to take it back to the place that did the work and getting them to make it idle properly but if they can't even do that, what faith do you have in the rest of it?

    He doesn't need to drop $1000 straight up on a retune either. A good tuner will be able to look at the tune and see the quality of it, or if it's locked, log it and get a fair idea. From there they can suggest a fix and if that's a retune or a set of plugs then so be it but you can still waste a lot of money shooting in the dark changing plugs, leads, coils, filters etc etc only to find it is the tune.
    Yes point/s taken.
    My job is nothing to do with cars, but I fault find, the fault can be start up out of order or a simple cable or switch not connected properly, often I find out, the first guys on the job, have made more faults than they started with, anyway my last post worked on:
    1. he just purchased the car and it had the work done some time/years ago along with the last/only tune
    2. the last owner, that paid for the mods and tune would have pushed to get a reasonably good tune after paying ? $5k
    yes I'm guessing and class these as good as, agreed upon facts (yes still guesses) so the car did idle at an acceptable standard.

    You make a good point he is not asking for another tune post a further mod, he just wants it running right so a few minor changes or fixes in the tune, and a good workshop should be able to see whats wrong and fit any parts needed during dyno runs, if it would even need to be put on a dyno? probably just need to run connected to the program/laptop hot or cold and it should be obvious. I'm keen to hear what the problem is and the cost.
    cheers
    PS how can you remove a cam in 10 seconds, drive over an overhead cam car, placing one track from a main battle tank
    through the centre of the car/engine, I noticed a young boy picking up one end of the engine cam after a demo run today!
    it spat out through the bonnet!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    20
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew_02 View Post
    Yes point/s taken.
    My job is nothing to do with cars, but I fault find, the fault can be start up out of order or a simple cable or switch not connected properly, often I find out, the first guys on the job, have made more faults than they started with, anyway my last post worked on:
    1. he just purchased the car and it had the work done some time/years ago along with the last/only tune
    2. the last owner, that paid for the mods and tune would have pushed to get a reasonably good tune after paying ? $5k
    yes I'm guessing and class these as good as, agreed upon facts (yes still guesses) so the car did idle at an acceptable standard.

    You make a good point he is not asking for another tune post a further mod, he just wants it running right so a few minor changes or fixes in the tune, and a good workshop should be able to see whats wrong and fit any parts needed during dyno runs, if it would even need to be put on a dyno? probably just need to run connected to the program/laptop hot or cold and it should be obvious. I'm keen to hear what the problem is and the cost.
    cheers
    PS how can you remove a cam in 10 seconds, drive over an overhead cam car, placing one track from a main battle tank
    through the centre of the car/engine, I noticed a young boy picking up one end of the engine cam after a demo run today!
    it spat out through the bonnet!
    I just want it on the dyno to see what HP I'm getting..... or is there another cheaper way?

  9. #19
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    Jan 2004
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    Perth, WA
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    A dyno/power run on its own usually isn't very much... probably $40-50 but the result will vary from dyno to dyno. Most accurate way is to run it at the strip, weigh it and then you'll know what power it will be making to make to run that MPH. The track doesn't lie like a dyno can

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    244
    I'd look at plugging in to the OBD port, and seeing if there are any codes to begin with.
    If you don't have access to one, drive down to your nearest Supercheap Auto and get them to run their scan tool on it.
    Could be something as simple as an O2 sensor that's on its way out.

    Did the previous owner at least give you an idea how long ago he had the work done?







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