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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    109

    5.7 holden VS 5.7 HSV engine

    Hey guys did a bit of a search on this but can only find people trying to compare ls1 to ls2 or 5l to 5.7l or 5.7l to 6l etc

    so basically what i want to know is what is the internal differences between a 5.7 holden (ss calais etc) and a 5.7 HSV ls1, the car in questions is VY series

    im needing to do a bit of work on my 5.7 hsv (just minor stuff i wanna swap out the pump) but i want to also put a 5.7 into an old project car of mine.

    in addition to this i wanted to do some internal work to my hsv (cam, heads, valvetrain etc)

    so the idea i had is since i need a second ls1 to put into an old car if the only differences between the hsv and holden varients of 5.7 are a cam or something minor i wanted to change out anyway. i was going to buy a low km vy ss motor as ive seen them go a lot cheaper than the hsvs by a grand or so. do all the intended work of the hsv on the ss motor,cam etc and renew all seals bearings etc while the motors out of the car that way theres no down time in my senator i can do bits and pieces to the motor as i get the cash then just swap out the built motor with the motor in the car

    then worry about the pump and engine swap of my old car later on

    no before it gets said i dont wanna drop a 6L into the senator, although i could probably get a lot more power with just a cam and tune over an ls1 with significant work for the same reason i didnt want to drop an ls1 into my hj gts being an original car id like to keep it standard but with a little more power

    any inputs are apreciated

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    1,062
    Internally they are identical, its all in exhaust and computer tuning.
    The VT Holden 220 and HSV 250 ran the early LS1 inlet manifold, the later Holden 225 and HSV 255, 260 and 285 used the LS6 inlet manifold.
    The exhaust on the 250, 255 and 260 were all pretty much the same with 41mm primary headers and 56mm secondaries.
    The 285 used 44mm primaries and 62mm secondaries plus a bigger and smoother inlet pipe between the airbox and manifold.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Keiraville, NSW
    Posts
    987
    Spoke with the boy (panel beater and upgrader) - he says the basics of the motor are the same but the heads could be different to get a higher compression ratio. Manifolds and computer chip are the main differences. Cam may or may not be changed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,537
    The LS1's are all the same internally bar the C4B. Its all exhaust, intake and tune.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Launny
    Posts
    787
    Quote Originally Posted by white_lie View Post
    The LS1's are all the same internally bar the C4B. Its all exhaust, intake and tune.
    oil pump as well, when the LS1's got the LS6 intake manifold they also got the LS6 oil pump which was an improvement over the original LS1 oil pumps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    109
    so theres minimal differences if any, is $1500 for a ls1 with 150thou kms fair these days?

    whats a decent mild cam? i want it to be slightly lumpy but still something you can take for short trips down the shop etc without going over the top

    would probably keep stock heads, going to put in ls7 lifters when i do cam and hardened pushrods, pushrod length with the cam suggestion to suit would be awesome as im not too sure if theyll need to be different size to suit cam
    . may be worth noting im going to change out rockers was going to stick with 1.7 unless anyone suggests otherwise

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,537
    I'd just get a VCM kit. Will have everything you need including the shorter pushrods.
    Something like the VCM480 would have a nice lumpy idle but still be mild mannered.

    I wouldn't bother with changing the rockers. There's no need. The money would be better spent on the heads, especially if you're pulling them to do the lifters anyway. Otherwise get a decent oil pump.
    Be wary of LS7 lifters, I've heard of a few dodgy ones getting around lately.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    109
    cheers ill do a bit of research into it and see how well it suits what i want, as for rockers i know theres no real need but seeings though they were coming out anyway i was going to replace them, save having to replace them down the track when they wear.. i guess ill just check them for play and make a decision based on that. my theory was if im pulling the part out anyway may as well put a new one in.

    obviously putting a new timing chain and sprockets etc in is there any real benefit to double row for mild engine work.

    pump i was thinking melling maybe

    and are there any lifters you would suggest i was just thinking ls7 as i read they were revised and made better and now used as a replacement for most ls engines

    heads i wasnt going to do unless it was going to be a big restriction to the cam

    i was more going cam path and replacing parts that wear out ie lifters pr rockers valve springs reseat valves and timing chain

    if heads are a great cost on top i may consider the change but like i said i was thinking more the parts associated with the cam that wear so its all fresh without going overboard with a whole overhaul

    its just a case of where do you start amd where do you stop...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Launny
    Posts
    787
    I just finished mine and I am starting to regret using LS7 lifters as they are noisy, as per white lie's comments, would not be surprised if I pull it down again to replace them, I will go a branded tie / link bar lifter next time.

    I went Camtech cam durations 216 - 226 with a 112 LSA with an auto with standard stall, they supplied the lifters and pushrods and like I said the lifters are noisy and the pushrods were the wrong length, you should always measure pushrods before buying so that the valve geometry is correct.

    I replaced heads (springs, seats etc), push rods, lifters, lifter trays, cam, timing chain, oil pump, headers, cats, under drive pulley set, the rockers were all good so I did not replace them.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    7,537
    Quote Originally Posted by zacharyjaiden View Post
    cheers ill do a bit of research into it and see how well it suits what i want, as for rockers i know theres no real need but seeings though they were coming out anyway i was going to replace them, save having to replace them down the track when they wear.. i guess ill just check them for play and make a decision based on that. my theory was if im pulling the part out anyway may as well put a new one in.

    obviously putting a new timing chain and sprockets etc in is there any real benefit to double row for mild engine work.

    pump i was thinking melling maybe

    and are there any lifters you would suggest i was just thinking ls7 as i read they were revised and made better and now used as a replacement for most ls engines

    heads i wasnt going to do unless it was going to be a big restriction to the cam

    i was more going cam path and replacing parts that wear out ie lifters pr rockers valve springs reseat valves and timing chain

    if heads are a great cost on top i may consider the change but like i said i was thinking more the parts associated with the cam that wear so its all fresh without going overboard with a whole overhaul

    its just a case of where do you start amd where do you stop...
    Rockers are a quick change at any time, covers off and swap them over but the gain for the cost doesn't really make sense to me. Perhaps the trunion upgrade if you really wanted to but like I say, that cash would yield better benefits going towards the heads. Get Higgins to port yours (or exchange) rather than aftermarket. But you're probably looking at 2k or thereabouts. Even if the cam doesn't warrant all out flow, you will still pick up torque right thru the rev range which will make it a lot nicer to drive on the street.

    As said, it is best to measure pushrod length when its all assembled or it may end up noisier than it should be. But the VCM kits are pretty close unless you're shaving the heads







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