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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016

    Post HSV E3 owners - Ongoing running costs?

    G’day guys,

    I am trying to make an informed decision about my next vehicle purchase. I am looking at a MY12.5 HSV R8 Tourer E3 Manual. At the moment, I am trying to ascertain what the ongoing running costs are going to be over the term of lease/finance (60,000 – 210,000km). This is also going to decide which method of purchase I end up going with – i.e Novated Lease Vs Traditional finance. I’ve done a bit of research and calculated what I think the running costs will be. I understand these cars have higher tyre and brake cost than your normal V8’s being a premium model.

    I’m seeking some advice from people who actually own this vehicle or similar who can comment on the figures I’ve come up with. Perhaps there are people out there who have a similar car leased and can comment on the yearly allocations. Is there any other items I should consider that may need replacing that is a cost on top of normal logbook servicing??

    Figures based on 30,000km per year. I will be assuming that the car has fairly new tyres, and up to date service when taking possession. Please note: I live 45km west of t he CBD and a vast majority of my driving is a 80-90% 100-100kph freeway run.

    Fuel - $6,300 (based on an average PULP of $1.36 and an approximate fuel consumption average of 15L / 100km.)
    Registration - $800
    Insurance - $1,300


    Rear every 45,000 km – would need 3 sets over the 5 year term @ $300 each = $600 * 3 = $1,800 (Kumos or Falkens)
    Fronts every 65,000 km – would need 2 sets over the 5 year term @ $280 each = $560 * 2 = $1,120 (Kumos or Falkens)

    Total tyre cost over 5 years = $2,920 / 5 = $584 per year

    Maintenance and Service:

    Intervals @ 15,000 kms

    Prices obtained from fixedpriceservices.com.au

    75,000 – $366
    90,000 – $625
    105,000 – $366
    120,000 – $366
    135,000 – $625
    150,000 – $642
    165,000 – $366
    180,000 – $625
    195,000 – $366
    210,000 - $366

    Total Servicing Costs: $4,713 / 5 years = $942.60 per year

    In addition to these services, I’ve had to add cost of pads and rotors.

    Brakes – I’ll assume that the rotors and pads would have been done pretty recently around the 60,000km mark.

    • Front Pads every 40,000 km – would need 3 sets over the 5 year term. @ $210 a set (DP3042C) = $630
    • Rear pads every 60,000 km – would need 2 sets over the 5 year term . @ $190 a set (DP3036C) = $380
    • Machine Rotors @ 110,000 km = $210
    • Full set of Rotors at 160,000 km
    • Front - DBA42030CSL/R - $505
    • Rear - 42031CSL, 42031CSL/R - $500
    • Machine again @ 210,000km = $210.

    I can do them myself to save on labour.

    TOTAL BRAKES: $2,435 / 5 years = $487 per year.

    Wheel alignments - Recommended every 5,000km = $60 *30 = $1,800 / 5 years = $360 per year

    Detailing - Probably allow $300 per year for basic details in between my manual washes

    TOTAL MAINTENANCE PER YEAR: $2,100 (rounded up to nearest $100).

    So to recap we have:

    Fuel - $6,300
    Registration: $800
    Insurance: $1,300
    Maintenance (incl servicing, wheel alignments, detailing): $1,600
    Brakes: $500
    Tyres: $600

    Sound about right?

    Advice and input is much appreciated.

    Cheers guys,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Sth West Syd ��
    Need to factor in -
    OTR - $500
    Exhaust - $2500
    Tune - $800
    Clutch - $1200
    S/C - $13,000

    Might throw out your fuel estimate....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    To be honest it is near impossible to accurately estimate running costs as there are so many variables. The number one variable is how you drive, like how often you plant your foot, how often you throw it into a corner, you really don't buy a performance care to get you from A to B in a sedate manner every time you drive it. There is noway your going to get the mileage from the tyres you have listed your rears won't last 45K & the fronts will never last 65K you will wear the edges on the fronts before the center making them illegal. For example my work ute is a VF V6 Storm auto it carries zero weight except a tool box & most of the time I'm in traffic so never is driven in anger. My rear tyres were bald at 45K & fronts also needed replacing, now that is a ute which weighs allot less than a wagon & it's not a V8 or manual.

    My E3 12.5 R8 is great on fuel until I feel the need to use the performance & then fuel isn't a concern, yes doing sums helps with a budget but your buying a performance car. If you start using the performance then rotors, pads, fuel, tyres is a black hole. On the purchase leases aren't the tax deduction they used to be, I used to buy a new ute every 5 years when contractor & it was better to just have finance/loan to pay for total car with no residual. You need to talk to an accountant in that respect.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014

    Your costing's close but not quiet. It's higher if you get one with 6 spot HSV brakes as this cost more to replace, estimate on tyre is too low, and I would re-check your insurance figures as under business use/novation, the premium is a lot higher. I'd be wary of standard insurance quotes from QBE, Swann, Aami, RACV, etc if you plan to modify or insure it under an agreed value instead of market value.

    I have My E3 GTS under a Novated Lease as part of my Salary Packaging Benefits. It's a daily driver, approx. 40k km from home to work (one way) and travelling between sites and work related meetings. To be honest, being able to novate the GTS was the only way to be able to afford it, otherwise I'll be driving a Prius. It's a great way to offset my taxable income.

    Having the car under a novation I can offset all the running costs pre-tax and some mods. I do have to pay some 20% FBT post-tax on the car which is the standard FBT for all employees in my industry. The upside is I don't have to maintain a logbook and kilometres travelled is no longer an issue. It was under the old legislation, hefty fines applies if kilometres are not met.

    In addition, you can novate a 2nd hand vehicle providing it's less than 8 years old and finance only applies up to the 8th year. There a lot of good 2nd have HSVs and it's a buyers market. I strongly advise that you seek guidance from you accountant too before making a decision.

    Good luck
    Last edited by AJR; 03-08-2016 at 09:31 PM.

    "Driven Not Hidden"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    I had my MY09 Senator on lease and it now has 167,000km on the clock. The extended warranty was worth its weight in gold. Tyre and Rim insurance is pretty handy too.

    Over the last 95,000km, my E1 Senator has been through 2.5 sets of front tyres and 4 sets of rear tyres. I wouldn't count on being able to machine the rotors. Just factor in a rotor/pad replacement on each occasion. My RDA/EBC Red combo cost me $600 for fronts and $400 for rears including freight. I've done one set of rotors/pads on the front after about 45,000km of my driving and just did the rears after 80,000km.

    Had to replace the rear shocks at 110,000km (leaky MRC - $$$$$$$ warranty), front strut tops (done at 135,000km service - $400). Alternator done at 165,000km service (genuine are about $500 - warranty). Engine mounts done at the same service ($500ish - warranty). Auto service at 150,000km. Keep the wheel alignment in check or you'll scrub the fronts before they are due. Spark plugs every 80,000km add a couple of hundred bucks to the cost of those services.

    Remember each service includes 9 litres of oil so can be big bucks there. Try to find a good mechanic (non-dealer unless you trust them) as I found my guys (Gentech in Canberra) were nearly half the price of the local dealer. Other than that, they are just a Commodore service-wise.

    Insurance cost can be a pain. I found that, as a late 30-something guy, I was able to get cheaper insurance than what the lease company could provide. Found Shannons to be the best for excess and comparable on others for premiums. I think I averaged about $1300 p.a. while the car was on lease, based on an agreed value in the $40k-45k range.

    Last edited by QIKMIK; 03-08-2016 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Insurance comment
    MY09 Senator Signature
    Cleaned --- Protected --- Driven

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    The repayment on the lease, you would properly pay the car off in 3 years and own it outright

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Keiraville, NSW
    From my WK Grange that, until 18 months ago, was frequently driven over 60,000 per year, on mainly freeway business appointment trips. Tyres at 30K. Correct rotation (assuming same sized wheels). For different sized wheels, fronts at 20K - skimming the edges.
    Each time a pad is changed, the rotor is skimmed (or should be). Assume a new rotor every second pad - will be at minimum permitted thickness. If the car has been pushed at any time, a set of front and rear wheel bearings will be due. My shocks were good for over three years - had been changed before I bought it but the wrong ones had been put in the front.. Power steering system leaks - probably dealer caused during their required servicing (extended warranty) Suspension bushes, not expensive but will be required. If you have HID lights, factor in a ballast change.
    Most of my driving was against the traffic flow or evenings after the peak had finished.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Quote Originally Posted by rodders188 View Post
    The repayment on the lease, you would properly pay the car off in 3 years and own it outright
    True but you don't get the tax benefit, included running costs or full warranty for essentially an 8yr old car at end of lease.

    MY09 Senator Signature
    Cleaned --- Protected --- Driven

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    I've been getting 15,000 in my E3 R8 rears running Kumho and Falken 453s. Not touching either after the current set runs out. I have Continental CSC5s in the garage waiting to fit and hoping they provide decent grip. Never faulted Falkens in the past, but the current set are crap. No WOT until the cars straight and never off the mark, or they just light up.

    Expect 30,000km at most but I'd allow $400/tyre to keep you happy
    MY12.5 Clubsport Manual in Alto Grey, MY16 SV6 auto in Phantom, MY11 SV6 auto in Voodoo, 1964 EH Manual wagon in Cream.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Canberra ACT
    I have been getting 25000km for the rears, and 50000km for the fronts. They are Bridgestone RE050A. I got the same type of numbers with my VE 1 Clubsport.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Previous: VX Clubsport, VYII Avalanche Wagon, VE R8 Clubsport.
    Current: E3 GTS, Audi SQ5

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