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View Full Version : E3 Bi Modal exhaust can it be tuned?



Sic Emo
20-11-2011, 09:17 PM
I have a SV Black Clubsport which comes standard with the 2 1/2" bi model exhaust can it be tuned so it opens or shuts at a different rpm or even so its open all the time?

Sniper
20-11-2011, 09:40 PM
Yes your ar can be tuned . . . the Bimodal on your C/S is 2 1/4" by the way!!!. . . which is fine

What location are you in so we can steer you in the right direction to and experienced tuner in this application

HSV085
20-11-2011, 11:17 PM
I have a SV Black Clubsport which comes standard with the 2 1/2" bi model exhaust can it be tuned so it opens or shuts at a different rpm or even so its open all the time?

From what i was told by both HSV & Walkinshaw, you cant change the rpm for when the valves open & close as apperantly its written into the edi's programming which at this point cant be changed.

Sic Emo
21-11-2011, 02:00 AM
I am in Perth and I have had the Walkinshaw cold air intake and super sport headers fitted and a walkinshaw tune which was done by my dealership, who told me that walkinshaw custom make the tune to what i have had done but without running my car on a dyno, which isn't going to give me the best power figures but I don't want to loose my warranty, the only place I know that can do a custom tune and have walkinshaw warranty is Formula Tech but I haven't come across any good reports of there work.

Sniper
21-11-2011, 06:35 AM
You would have purchased your car from Shacks I guess . . . dont go anywhere new Bibra Lake as you may go backwards,

Currently, the best available and probably the most popular tuner in WA is Active Automotive. . . just call them or call in and have a yarn. . . . they have "re - tuned" plenty of your combo's for Shacks with the correct result!!!

Tell them I sent you. . . . you will not regret it . . . . and maybe go and have a look at this on sunday too . . . I will be there . . http://www.psra.com.au/east-v-west-dyno-shootout-results.html

crackelaktor
04-01-2012, 07:38 AM
Sniper. I have the stock bimodal system on my E3 GTS. I also have a VCM OTR and MAFLESS tune. Love the car the way it is. I recently disconnected the 2 hoses from the bimodal rear mufflers so that they would remain open constantly. Love the result of doing this, but my wife wants to be able to have it quiet as well. You mentioned there is a way to tune the bimodal operation. I'd like the ability to have it fully open as I do now with disconnected hoses, but with the hoses being connected. If I took this back to my tuner, is it known by the general tuner community whether this can be done. As you know, there are 3 settings for Bimodal operation. Normal, off, and idle off. I'd like one of these settings to be made to be "Open all the time".

E2R8
04-01-2012, 10:05 AM
Crackelaktor, what RWKW result did you get?

crackelaktor
04-01-2012, 10:11 AM
Went from 226 to 268 after tune

E2R8
04-01-2012, 10:39 AM
thats a big difference. who did the work? you happy with it?

jkhsv
04-01-2012, 01:08 PM
Went from 226 to 268 after tune

That's an impressive gain..what sort of dyno was it on ?

crackelaktor
04-01-2012, 01:23 PM
That's an impressive gain..what sort of dyno was it on ?

Not sure. Whatever the Castle Hill Performance centre use. Wasn't happy with the feel the first time around, so took it back for a second tune and Dale sorted it out nicely.

Sic Emo
05-01-2012, 07:40 PM
So disconnecting the vacuum lines on the rear muffler keeps the flaps open?

Sniper
05-01-2012, 07:49 PM
Correct . . . but give your car some more efficiency (read cylinder pressure) via a suitable Cam or Charger and the Bi Modal effect changes remarkably . . for the better!!!

RedHotMike
05-01-2012, 08:35 PM
^^^^ From first hand experience I concur 100%. Tried to keep it under the radar as best as I could but the car receives a *lot* of attention. Way more than before.

Red Hot Mike

crackelaktor
06-01-2012, 10:14 AM
So can the bimodal exhaust be tuned to stay fully open or not. If possible, I'd like to have the option so that my wife gets to turn it on and I can turn it off. Right now, the only way for me to do this is by detaching the hose pipes which ive done but that means my wife cannot turn it down via the EDI interface anymore.

jkhsv
06-01-2012, 11:35 AM
So can the bimodal exhaust be tuned to stay fully open or not. If possible, I'd like to have the option so that my wife gets to turn it on and I can turn it off. Right now, the only way for me to do this is by detaching the hose pipes which ive done but that means my wife cannot turn it down via the EDI interface anymore.

Easy fix....don't let the wife drive it !!!! :!:

crackelaktor
06-01-2012, 11:44 AM
Easy fix....don't let the wife drive it !!!! :!:

It is her daily driver. A bit hard. Wonder why HSV didn't have a 4th setting to leave the butterfly flaps open. It does make a nice difference to the sound without being over the top.

crackelaktor
06-01-2012, 11:48 AM
I've popped a small plug in the end of the tubes that connect to the valve, but not sure whether this was a necessary step or what issues would arise with just disconnecting without placing a plug in place. Anyone know?

Sniper
06-01-2012, 12:42 PM
It is her daily driver. A bit hard. Wonder why HSV didn't have a 4th setting to leave the butterfly flaps open. It does make a nice difference to the sound without being over the top.

Well if its her car . . . let her have it . . . go get yourself another one!!

The Bi Modal cannot have the "ON" all the time option as it will not p*** the ncessary ADR's .. . . the w**** Bi Modal concept is about cheating ADR . . . legally

. . . and for what its worth. . . Brock created the basic concept (although for a slightly different reason) back in 1987 and had it on the then "Signature Series Group 111" . . . just a bit of Trivia there guys!!!!

neil73
08-01-2012, 12:17 AM
How's it sound with the lines disconnected,.. Sounds like a tempting experiment. They easy to get too?

Sniper
08-01-2012, 12:42 AM
How's it sound with the lines disconnected,.. Sounds like a tempting experiment. They easy to get too?

Easy to do . . . my sons have our GTS disconnected . . . not much more effect . . . but it is better if you want low down noise . . . just put a cam in the thing and everything comes to life!!!

neil73
08-01-2012, 12:46 AM
Doest damage anything disconnecting the hoses? I need some ramps to drive it up.... ;)

neil73
10-01-2012, 01:08 AM
I'm a bit confused,.. Checked it out today and the bimodal is open at idle,.. Wouldn't that be the loudest note,.. And wouldn't pulling off the hoses close the valve?

crackelaktor
10-01-2012, 09:26 AM
I'm a bit confused,.. Checked it out today and the bimodal is open at idle,.. Wouldn't that be the loudest note,.. And wouldn't pulling off the hoses close the valve?

In the "normal" mode it is. In "off" and "idle off" it is closed on idle. The problem with normal mode is that it opens and closes according the the settings made by HSV. You cannot have it "Open" all the time unless you disconnect the hoses. I've done this to my own GTS E3.

J8NE5Y
10-01-2012, 08:59 PM
The valve operates by vacuum. A spring holds the butterfly valve open, giving the louder note. Vacuum closes the butterfly valve. I would ***ume when you disconnect the lines you would have to block the end of them to avoid dirt getting sucked up them?

neil73
10-01-2012, 10:34 PM
In the "normal" mode it is. In "off" and "idle off" it is closed on idle. The problem with normal mode is that it opens and closes according the the settings made by HSV. You cannot have it "Open" all the time unless you disconnect the hoses. I've done this to my own GTS E3.

Ok.. So disconnecting the tubes only changes the note at 3000rpm?

07GTS
10-01-2012, 11:26 PM
just a thought to get around it... if its by vacume could u run a little open/close solenoid to the pipe and have a switch inside..? then u could have it open all the time and when u want and back to normal at the push of a button... think the vacume cruise control solenoids might work, bit of stuffing round tho...

crackelaktor
11-01-2012, 07:01 AM
The valve operates by vacuum. A spring holds the butterfly valve open, giving the louder note. Vacuum closes the butterfly valve. I would ***ume when you disconnect the lines you would have to block the end of them to avoid dirt getting sucked up them?

I've plugged mine to avoid this.

crackelaktor
11-01-2012, 07:02 AM
just a thought to get around it... if its by vacume could u run a little open/close solenoid to the pipe and have a switch inside..? then u could have it open all the time and when u want and back to normal at the push of a button... think the vacume cruise control solenoids might work, bit of stuffing round tho...

Sounds like it might work. Will ask my local performance workshop if they can rig something up. Cheers.

neil73
22-01-2012, 11:11 PM
Ok, so stuck my head under the car today and found the rubber hose, is there a trick in getting it off so it can be put back on?? Do u just pull it off, or Is there a clIp or something that needs to be pulled off?

neil73
22-01-2012, 11:12 PM
Taking the hoses off will that give a louder note at idle or at the higher rev ranges?

BEAT5WALKN
21-03-2012, 01:13 AM
What happened here... everyone got bored and went home....Continue guys. I'm interested

jkhsv
21-03-2012, 11:15 AM
I am looking at purchasing an aftermarket RPM Control Module for my bimodal so i can set it up how I want it. All I want is the extra option to the factory settings of "open all the time".

HM Perry are checking with HSV what happens when the factory bimodal is byp***ed with this new controller..i.e. error codes on the EDI.

Andrew_02
21-03-2012, 11:15 PM
this post should be moved to the jokes section its going around in circles!
I know id be happy to pay a few dollars to have a fourth setting and not have to reach under the car to reconnect it.
buty to continue with the joke side of things;

The vaccum must have heaps of pressure, i.e. try moving the lever by hand.
I believe its default is open to give both sides of the inside muffler, although only one rear tail pipe ever really works
thats why one ends up rusty.
I used some retic hose 4cm to stop the valve rusting, and a small screw inside the hose once disconected then turned
the bi modal off at the edi, thenf changed my mind and turned it back on after trying to workout when the line had pressure in it and what setting the valve was in when it was off. F#$% time for another james boags cheers.
ps maybe someone will use a torch with their car running/being reved and try and see what is going on! inside the exhaust
a few more JB's and i might last night i tried to find where the hoses went into the engine bay and found the fuel lines!!!! close
thank god for yellow warning stickers and big fuel rails
_you can put it back on without getting under the car unless you have very short arms! i have never pushed the hose and clip all the way back on and it has never fallen off.
_rpm once the hose is removed you get half the mufler (louder) after idle 1200 through to 3500 when it would come back on.
i knew id sort something out with another JB where does the Bi Modal hose come from, look at the brochure (if you have one)
it shows the two locations the hose is plumbed to.

neil73
21-03-2012, 11:55 PM
this post should be moved to the jokes section its going around in circles!
I know id be happy to pay a few dollars to have a fourth setting and not have to reach under the car to reconnect it.
buty to continue with the joke side of things;

The vaccum must have heaps of pressure, i.e. try moving the lever by hand.
I believe its default is open to give both sides of the inside muffler, although only one rear tail pipe ever really works.
thats why one ends up rusty.
I used some retic hose 4cm to stop the valve rusting, and a small screw inside the hose once disconected then turned
the bi modal off at the edi, thenf changed my mind and turned it back on after trying to workout when the line had pressure in it and what setting the valve was in when it was off. F#$% time for another james boags cheers.
ps maybe someone will use a torch with their car running/being reved and try and see what is going on! inside the exhaust
a few more JB's and i might last night i tried to find where the hoses went into the engine bay and found the fuel lines!!!! close
thank god for yellow warning stickers and big fuel rails
_you can put it back on without getting under the car unless you have very short arms! i have never pushed the hose and clip all the way back on and it has never fallen off.
_rpm once the hose is removed you get half the mufler (louder) after idle 1200 through to 3500 when it would come back on.
i knew id sort something out with another JB where does the Bi Modal hose come from, look at the brochure (if you have one)
it shows the two locations the hose is plumbed to.

That clears it all up...

BEAT5WALKN
22-03-2012, 01:48 AM
That clears it up alright.... ya want a sweeter sound, get a cam and then stand by for john's experiment

Helicopter7
23-03-2012, 12:42 PM
I also asked this question under the General Discussion section.

My plan is to locate the electric solenoid [I presume somewhere in the engine bay area] that is commanded by the EDI to open/close the vaccuum to the rear flap acuators in the rear mufflers.

This would be a much more elegant way to take control of the mufflers, rather than trying to re-program the EDI etc. The switch would simply be wired to either allow EDI control, or simply force the flaps open all the time for full on noise!

The switch would be hidden somewhere near the driver, away from view and would do the job nicely. Furthermore if you happened to get pulled over for excess noise, so what obviously this is a vehicle fault:D with the vaccuum actuators on the mufflers, not your fault right?

I haven't started to look yet so I may be beaten to it by another member, which is fine by me. All I need to know is the location of this vaccuum solenoid to wire onto. Depending on how the EDI controls the solenoid, may be tricky and need to use diode logic but thats easy.

If I do get to find it, I will wire it all up and let you know what was done.

Cheers

Grange325
23-03-2012, 02:33 PM
Just spoke to tech support at motec and they said that only hsv can reprogram the bi model system

Andrew_02
23-03-2012, 10:50 PM
I also asked this question under the General Discussion section.

My plan is to locate the electric solenoid [I presume somewhere in the engine bay area] that is commanded by the EDI to open/close the vaccuum to the rear flap acuators in the rear mufflers.

This would be a much more elegant way to take control of the mufflers, rather than trying to re-program the EDI etc. The switch would simply be wired to either allow EDI control, or simply force the flaps open all the time for full on noise!

The switch would be hidden somewhere near the driver, away from view and would do the job nicely. Furthermore if you happened to get pulled over for excess noise, so what obviously this is a vehicle fault:D with the vaccuum actuators on the mufflers, not your fault right?

I haven't started to look yet so I may be beaten to it by another member, which is fine by me. All I need to know is the location of this vaccuum solenoid to wire onto. Depending on how the EDI controls the solenoid, may be tricky and need to use diode logic but thats easy.

If I do get to find it, I will wire it all up and let you know what was done.

Cheers
Hi H7 my rant aside the brochure does show two locations that the hose connects to in the engine bay one must be
for the EDI and one somewhere near the rear of the manifold, and it does sound good when closed all the time, but
anyone in the rear seats its not so flash for them during low RPM, so id happily pay a few hunderd $ to have a simple switch to use when driving alone. cheers

Helicopter7
25-03-2012, 01:50 AM
Hi H7 my rant aside the brochure does show two locations that the hose connects to in the engine bay one must be
for the EDI and one somewhere near the rear of the manifold, and it does sound good when closed all the time, but
anyone in the rear seats its not so flash for them during low RPM, so id happily pay a few hunderd $ to have a simple switch to use when driving alone. cheers

Hi Andrew_02

Yes it would be good to get the EDI software changed but that would be almost impossible for two reasons.
The cost to re-write, run regression tests and verify the software would be extremely expensive. Secondly HSV/Motec would not do it as they would be breaking the law because the vehicle would no longer meet ADR noise rules, so hope nobody is holding their breath for that solution.

Anyway spent an hour or so today looking for the vaccuum solenoid. At one stage I jumped for joy thinking that I found it. Looking at the engine, on the LHS of the throttle body there is some sort of air valve. A small vaccuum pipe coming from the inlet manifold located on the RHS just behind the throttle body goes to this solenoid. A second pipe exits and runs back over the throttle body, and then back parallel to the injector rail toward the firewall. Then dissapears somewhere.

So I disconnected the 2-wire plug to this solenoid to dissable it, then turned on the engine and operated the bimodal. Unfortunatelly the EDI still had control, so this solenoid does not control the mufflers.

I did think it was too good to be true! I guess if the solenoid is located back behind the engine then its going to be a rather difficult exercise. I don not have access to a hoist to investigate further, but it must be accessible for servicing right?

I looked at the brochure as well, and while it shows one of the pipes going to the EDI, I hardly believe its going inside the vehicle. It must just be a simple vaccuum solenoid switched with 12V from the EDI.

There must be some members out there that have it good with their HSV mechanic at their local dealer to ask the location of the vaccuum solenoid.

Helicopter7
28-03-2012, 12:33 PM
Hello, anyone out there?

This thread has suddenly become very quiet:p

Cheers

RedHotMike
28-03-2012, 01:10 PM
I am here. Nothing of substance to contribute but would like to see an answer!

Red Hot Mike

RedHotMike
28-03-2012, 01:38 PM
I am here. Nothing of substance to contribute but would like to see an answer!

Red Hot Mike

rodders188
28-03-2012, 03:48 PM
The bimodal Catback doesnt really make a car sound like a proper V8. A great big gimmick for emmissions and noise levels leaving the factory.

Sniper
28-03-2012, 05:24 PM
Bloody Hell . . . I have written plenty about the Bi Modal around here . . . Rodders has a point . . . however. . . if you go back to the original question. . . the answer is YES . . . it has a vaccumm controlled actuator . . . . Maybe think about that . . . !!!!!!!!!

crackelaktor
29-06-2012, 09:27 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLcZvNzpGkM and here is what an E3 GTS sounds like with the stock BiModal Exhaust and VCM OTR in place.....again, video sound doesnt do the car justice

Helicopter7
02-07-2012, 12:54 PM
I have located the electric vacuum solenoids, there are two of them, one each side of the wheel well located right over each muffler. Each solenoid is is covered by a heat shield which is not easy to remove without dropping the muflers down a touch.

Unfortunatelly I don't have access to a hoist and for me at least too hard to do this on the ground under the car as there is little headroom without raising the vehicle.

Anyway, if there is anybody with a HSV located in Sydney who also wants to do this bi-modal switch mod and has free access to a hoist for a couple of hours, I could do the wiring mod to my car [I just need to get the wiring from each solenoid into the spare wheel area which would be enough for me] and in return for this favour more than happy to help them wire up their vehicle.

Cheers

crackelaktor
02-07-2012, 05:15 PM
I have located the electric vacuum solenoids, there are two of them, one each side of the wheel well located right over each muffler. Each solenoid is is covered by a heat shield which is not easy to remove without dropping the muflers down a touch.

Unfortunatelly I don't have access to a hoist and for me at least too hard to do this on the ground under the car as there is little headroom without raising the vehicle.

Anyway, if there is anybody with a HSV located in Sydney who also wants to do this bi-modal switch mod and has free access to a hoist for a couple of hours, I could do the wiring mod to my car [I just need to get the wiring from each solenoid into the spare wheel area which would be enough for me] and in return for this favour more than happy to help them wire up their vehicle.

Cheers

Hi, why don't you just disconnect the hoses from the solenoids as it took less than a couple of minutes to do. Not sure what your goal is with wiring and removing heat shields. I ***ume you are trying to create an electronic byp*** rather than what others have done to just disconnect the hoses.

Helicopter7
02-07-2012, 10:47 PM
Hi, why don't you just disconnect the hoses from the solenoids as it took less than a couple of minutes to do. Not sure what your goal is with wiring and removing heat shields. I ***ume you are trying to create an electronic byp*** rather than what others have done to just disconnect the hoses.

Hi,

Removing the pipes from the vacuum actuators has already been suggested, I know this.

I have already indicated before that my intention is to wire up a switch in the car so I can control when to open or shut the vacuum actuators by controling the electric solenoid valves and subsequently the good 'noise'...!
The heatshields will be re-installed after the wiring, not left off.

BTW, removing the tubes off the vacuum actuators, [not called solenoids] simply opens the exhaust up permanently with no control and furthermore you end up sucking in dirty or dusty air straight back into the engine.

So if or when I can get access to a hoist I will post the electrical diagram required to do this for any other interested members.

Cheers

jkhsv
02-07-2012, 11:40 PM
I am hoping to have this mod completed on my car this weekend thanks to a friend working out how to hook it up. Mine will have a switch in the console to over ride the edi....

crackelaktor
03-07-2012, 05:17 AM
Hi,

Removing the pipes from the vacuum actuators has already been suggested, I know this.

I have already indicated before that my intention is to wire up a switch in the car so I can control when to open or shut the vacuum actuators by controling the electric solenoid valves and subsequently the good 'noise'...!
The heatshields will be re-installed after the wiring, not left off.

BTW, removing the tubes off the vacuum actuators, [not called solenoids] simply opens the exhaust up permanently with no control and furthermore you end up sucking in dirty or dusty air straight back into the engine.

So if or when I can get access to a hoist I will post the electrical diagram required to do this for any other interested members.

Cheers

Ok makes sense. Interested in your outcome as I'd like this feature as well. I've plugged the ends of the hoses to prevent dirt getting sucked in but your solution would be ideal.

crackelaktor
03-07-2012, 05:17 AM
I am hoping to have this mod completed on my car this weekend thanks to a friend working out how to hook it up. Mine will have a switch in the console to over ride the edi....

Jk, very keen to hear how you go.

jkhsv
03-07-2012, 10:36 AM
Jk, very keen to hear how you go.

Should go well, I have installation instructions and the wiring harness is on its way to me this week.

Helicopter7
03-07-2012, 06:27 PM
Should go well, I have installation instructions and the wiring harness is on its way to me this week.
I wish I lived in Perth that way I could use your hoist!

Hopefully someone in Sydney may also have access to a hoist

Enjoy the mod, should be easy enough, car electronics/electrical are dead easy.


Then go out and annoy the suburbs ..........lol

amadr8
03-07-2012, 08:20 PM
i made up the wiring loom that jk is installing, i already have this on my car and it works perfectley, when wanted you can use your normal edi settings and then at a flick of a switch the valves will stay open no matter what the screen says on the edi.

its very easy to install, once the rear mufflers and heat shields are off the car it should take no more than half an hour under there using a jack, the hardest part of the install is getting a wire from the boot of the car to the centre console for the switch

crackelaktor
03-07-2012, 10:49 PM
i made up the wiring loom that jk is installing, i already have this on my car and it works perfectley, when wanted you can use your normal edi settings and then at a flick of a switch the valves will stay open no matter what the screen says on the edi.

its very easy to install, once the rear mufflers and heat shields are off the car it should take no more than half an hour under there using a jack, the hardest part of the install is getting a wire from the boot of the car to the centre console for the switch

I'd pay someone money to do this for me in Sydney. Has to be a clean job because if I do it, I'll mess it up.

amadr8
03-07-2012, 11:07 PM
I'd pay someone money to do this for me in Sydney. Has to be a clean job because if I do it, I'll mess it up.

its reall not hard to do, the loom i made jk and myself was made in a way so that you didnt have to cut into any of the facotry wires at all. all the work under the car and getting the wire inside the boot is piss easy, honestly the hardest part is running a single wire under the carpet from under the back seat and getting it into the centre console.

Eors
03-07-2012, 11:15 PM
Read this today on HSV site....dont know if it will work or not...no responsibilty taken for this!!

Hi Guys, Thought it was about time I came back and let you all know how to modify the EDI to allow the Bi-Modal to remain open whenever you like without having to disconnect the vacuumed lines and losing the EDI functionality to adjust the Bi-Modal.

It's actuall really simple and you only need a 12 volt switch and 1-2 meters of wire depending where you want the switch.

I've thought about keeping this information to myself but as you all have been helpfully to me and other member of this forum here goes.... ;)

Step 1. Remove the glovebox - There are 2 screws below the glovebox facing up and 5 screws in the glovebox, 3 facing up and 2 hidden behind the plastic caps either side of the glovebox. The drivers side cover goes around the boot release button.

Step 2. Make sure you key is out of the ignition and the radio is off. Or you might be heading into Holden to get the EDI reset.

Step 3. Look up (and smile) and you will see a small black box conveniently labeled 'HSV Motec EDI' discconnect the main (the large one) wireing harnes and cut the tape away exposing the wireing.

Step 4. Locate the thin orange wire ( the thick orange wire is the main 12v supply) and cut it in half.

Step 5. Connect your switch (using the 1-2meter wire as above) to the orange wires. One end of the orange wire goes to one side of the switch and, well you guest it... Connect the other end of the orange wire to the other side of the switch.

Step 6. Mount your switch (some people may want to swap step 5 and 6 around) somewhere handy. I mounted mine behind the stero fascia directly above where the ashtray woul go. This offers easy access but also hids the switch so no one knows about it ;)

Step 7. Reconnect the EDI wireing harness and install the glovebox.

Spep 8. Enjoy..... ;)

BushChook
03-07-2012, 11:45 PM
Read this today on HSV site....dont know if it will work or not...no responsibilty taken for this!!

Hi Guys, Thought it was about time I came back and let you all know how to modify the EDI to allow the Bi-Modal to remain open whenever you like without having to disconnect the vacuumed lines and losing the EDI functionality to adjust the Bi-Modal.

It's actuall really simple and you only need a 12 volt switch and 1-2 meters of wire depending where you want the switch.

I've thought about keeping this information to myself but as you all have been helpfully to me and other member of this forum here goes.... ;)

Step 1. Remove the glovebox - There are 2 screws below the glovebox facing up and 5 screws in the glovebox, 3 facing up and 2 hidden behind the plastic caps either side of the glovebox. The drivers side cover goes around the boot release button.

Step 2. Make sure you key is out of the ignition and the radio is off. Or you might be heading into Holden to get the EDI reset.

Step 3. Look up (and smile) and you will see a small black box conveniently labeled 'HSV Motec EDI' discconnect the main (the large one) wireing harnes and cut the tape away exposing the wireing.

Step 4. Locate the thin orange wire ( the thick orange wire is the main 12v supply) and cut it in half.

Step 5. Connect your switch (using the 1-2meter wire as above) to the orange wires. One end of the orange wire goes to one side of the switch and, well you guest it... Connect the other end of the orange wire to the other side of the switch.

Step 6. Mount your switch (some people may want to swap step 5 and 6 around) somewhere handy. I mounted mine behind the stero fascia directly above where the ashtray woul go. This offers easy access but also hids the switch so no one knows about it ;)

Step 7. Reconnect the EDI wireing harness and install the glovebox.

Spep 8. Enjoy..... ;)

Can somebody please try this lol

crackelaktor
04-07-2012, 06:30 AM
Read this today on HSV site....dont know if it will work or not...no responsibilty taken for this!!

Hi Guys, Thought it was about time I came back and let you all know how to modify the EDI to allow the Bi-Modal to remain open whenever you like without having to disconnect the vacuumed lines and losing the EDI functionality to adjust the Bi-Modal.

It's actuall really simple and you only need a 12 volt switch and 1-2 meters of wire depending where you want the switch.

I've thought about keeping this information to myself but as you all have been helpfully to me and other member of this forum here goes.... ;)

Step 1. Remove the glovebox - There are 2 screws below the glovebox facing up and 5 screws in the glovebox, 3 facing up and 2 hidden behind the plastic caps either side of the glovebox. The drivers side cover goes around the boot release button.

Step 2. Make sure you key is out of the ignition and the radio is off. Or you might be heading into Holden to get the EDI reset.

Step 3. Look up (and smile) and you will see a small black box conveniently labeled 'HSV Motec EDI' discconnect the main (the large one) wireing harnes and cut the tape away exposing the wireing.

Step 4. Locate the thin orange wire ( the thick orange wire is the main 12v supply) and cut it in half.

Step 5. Connect your switch (using the 1-2meter wire as above) to the orange wires. One end of the orange wire goes to one side of the switch and, well you guest it... Connect the other end of the orange wire to the other side of the switch.

Step 6. Mount your switch (some people may want to swap step 5 and 6 around) somewhere handy. I mounted mine behind the stero fascia directly above where the ashtray woul go. This offers easy access but also hids the switch so no one knows about it ;)

Step 7. Reconnect the EDI wireing harness and install the glovebox.

Spep 8. Enjoy..... ;)

Sounds authentic. Can you post the link to the source of this information please. I'd like to see if there is a way to get in touch with the author of this and speak with them. Jk and Heli7, might be worth looking into before you spend time trying to get your switch and cable fed from the back of the car. If the above works, it sounds much easier as the switch could be mounted inside the glove box without having to feed wire under carpets, etc.

Eors
04-07-2012, 09:34 AM
I read the information the MyHSV website forums which is run by HSV....not sure you will be able to use the link but give it a try

http://my.hsv.com.au/myHSV/forum/topics.aspx?ID=301

Otherwise you will have to join their forums to read it

If I had Bi Modal on my Maloo I would give it a go and confirm whether it works or not...but sadly no Bi Modal for me

jkhsv
04-07-2012, 10:19 AM
Yes I would like to know as well before I cut wires on the EDI wiring harness...but if it is legit a quick fix :D

But I guess then it could be an issue for warranty if the EDI plays up ?

Y.B.SHY
04-07-2012, 02:38 PM
Hi Guys,

That is my post on the my.hsv forum. I can ***ure you it works and if your in Melbourne I'm more than happy to show you in person.

Cheers

Eors
04-07-2012, 02:41 PM
Hi Guys,

That is my post on the my.hsv forum. I can ***ure you it works and if your in Melbourne I'm more than happy to show you in person.

Cheers

Didnt intend to Hijack your thread but it sounded easier than what others had planned

Y.B.SHY
04-07-2012, 04:45 PM
No dramas mate, That's why I was posting it up on forums. I planed to post it here last night but my account took longer to activate than I thought.

crackelaktor
04-07-2012, 05:22 PM
No dramas mate, That's why I was posting it up on forums. I planed to post it here last night but my account took longer to activate than I thought.

Hi, I'm based in Sydney and will take your instructions to an auto electrician to try this out. I don't have the time, patience or nerve to do it myself even though it sounds very simple to do. I'll get a quote and try it out.

jkhsv
04-07-2012, 05:40 PM
Didnt intend to Hijack your thread but it sounded easier than what others had planned

Might be easier but I can imagine if you have an issue with your EDI and the dealer sees you have cut into the EDI wiring harness they may not take too kindly to that ...

crackelaktor
04-07-2012, 05:45 PM
Might be easier but I can imagine if you have an issue with your EDI and the dealer sees you have cut into the EDI wiring harness they may not take too kindly to that ...

Agree however running a Mafless tune and OTR so I suspect my factory warranty circumstance will be limited anyway :) your car JK is not even a HSV anymore by the sounds of it ;)

BushChook
04-07-2012, 05:58 PM
just spoke to somebody that tried it. i dont know if he followed the same instructions but he mentioned an orange wire behind the glovebox and it works

Y.B.SHY
04-07-2012, 07:08 PM
@ jkhsv, I aggre with the potential warranty issue but, it would be the same issue wether you cut the wires inside the ve chile or underneath the car. If you are concerned about Holden seeing the cut in the wires you could do the cut behind the radio so they would need to pull the radio out of the car in order to see the modification.

I'm also working on reprogramming the EDI to add another feature to the Bi-Modal screen to enable open all the time, but this is a work in progress. I've had some success with this but when Holden\HSV upgrade the EDI it overwrites my mod.

Once I've sorted out all the bugs in the software I will let everyone know.

P.s. if you are in Melbourne I'm more than happy to either help out with the mod or do the complete mod for you. Just send me a pm

Cheers,
Ash

Helicopter7
04-07-2012, 08:10 PM
Hi Guys,

That is my post on the my.hsv forum. I can ***ure you it works and if your in Melbourne I'm more than happy to show you in person.

Cheers

Y.B.SHY.........mate

Finally someone with the information I was asking about in my early forum correspondence regarding this subject.
I thank you as I no longer need to get under the car to modify the wiring to the electric solenoid actuators.
I already had a chat with the service manager here at the Holden dealer were I purchased my E3 and he wasn't too fussed if I did this mod as long as it didn't result in damage to some other components. Given its only a switch which basically
simply only disabling an existing function there should not be any warranty issues.

The hardest part for me will be removing the glovebox .......LOL.

I may perhaps do this on the weekend, can't wait.

Again thanks very much for sharing this information.

Cheers

zclubby
04-07-2012, 08:52 PM
You da man Y.B.SHY. Off to jaycar...........

Sic Emo
05-07-2012, 09:00 PM
I tried this today and i does work, I found that I had to there was 9 screws to take out the extra screws were underneath the glove box I didn't cut the wire I removed the small orange wire from the plug that connects to the EDI unit, I then put a new pin on my switch wire and a male pin on the other side of the switch wire this way I have not damaged any of the wiring and it can all be reverted to factory easily I installed the switch next to the USB socket it the glove box here is a picture of what the plug looks like now I used heat shrink to cover the connecting pins

crackelaktor
06-07-2012, 06:08 AM
I tried this today and i does work, I found that I had to there was 9 screws to take out the extra screws were underneath the glove box I didn't cut the wire I removed the small orange wire from the plug that connects to the EDI unit, I then put a new pin on my switch wire and a male pin on the other side of the switch wire this way I have not damaged any of the wiring and it can all be reverted to factory easily I installed the switch next to the USB socket it the glove box here is a picture of what the plug looks like now I used heat shrink to cover the connecting pins

Clever. Was it difficult to remove the orange wire from the plug? Ie, was it firmly connected?

Malus
06-07-2012, 05:48 PM
Chucking this up from another thread, thought it might interest both people that do and dont have the factory EDI Bimodal.

I purchased a pair of E3 Maloo bimodal mufflers off J8NESY at the start of June, with the intention to use the HM bimodal controller.
Since then, I found out that HM will not sell the controller separately to their bimodal exhaust systems. And due to legal reasons, HM have had to redesign their controller to only open above 3000rpm and cannot be adjusted.
So now I'm in the process of making my own controller. If it works the way I intend, it'll have 1 or 2 stage custom rpm open/close control and if you go above 70-80% throttle the valves will automatically open regardless of RPM. It will also have a 3 way switch to select between Always closed/Always open/RpmWOT controlled.
I'll probably start a thread once I start the build and testing, just waiting on parts from the USA...

crackelaktor
06-07-2012, 08:19 PM
Clever. Was it difficult to remove the orange wire from the plug? Ie, was it firmly connected?

What is the trick to removing the glove box?

crackelaktor
06-07-2012, 08:27 PM
What is the trick to removing the glove box?

All screws are out but the bugger is very set in place. Are there any tips other than yanking it out?

220isenator
06-07-2012, 08:51 PM
If you have all the screws out then the glovebox sits on plastic pins. Pull the glovebox horizontally towards you and it should come out. Make sure you have got the screw on the door side.

E3GTS4me
06-07-2012, 09:14 PM
Just finished doing this mod.....about an hour and all done and works a treat. Thanks very much to all involved in disclosing this great and very easy mod :)

and here's a link to the glove box removal

https://sites.google.com/site/udcaus/holden-ve-stereo-removal-instructions

crackelaktor
06-07-2012, 09:20 PM
Just finished doing this mod.....about an hour and all done and works a treat. Thanks very much to all involved in disclosing this great and very easy mod :)

and here's a link to the glove box removal

https://sites.google.com/site/udcaus/holden-ve-stereo-removal-instructions

Hi, I'm in my garage having a go and have a question if you wouldn't mind calling me. Sent you a PM

crackelaktor
06-07-2012, 09:21 PM
Hi, I'm in my garage having a go and have a question if you wouldn't mind calling me. Sent you a PM

3903
How do you get the pin out of this bugger as I'd like to avoid cutting the wire

jkhsv
06-07-2012, 11:28 PM
3903
How do you get the pin out of this bugger as I'd like to avoid cutting the wire
Looks like more than one orange wire ????

crackelaktor
07-07-2012, 05:54 AM
Looks like more than one orange wire ????

There are 2 orange wires. A thick one and a thin one. The flash on my iPhone has distorted the color of what looks like a 3rd orange wire but is brown.

crackelaktor
07-07-2012, 06:59 AM
I tried this today and i does work, I found that I had to there was 9 screws to take out the extra screws were underneath the glove box I didn't cut the wire I removed the small orange wire from the plug that connects to the EDI unit, I then put a new pin on my switch wire and a male pin on the other side of the switch wire this way I have not damaged any of the wiring and it can all be reverted to factory easily I installed the switch next to the USB socket it the glove box here is a picture of what the plug looks like now I used heat shrink to cover the connecting pins

Sic Emo, how did you remove the orange wire from the plug and what type/size pin did you use to replace into the plug? Can you take a photo of the pins you used and their size? This mod is very easy as people have said, but I couldn't remove the wire from the plug as you did. Did you remove the original factory pin from the orange wire and then re-used it on your white replacement wire? Or did you use a newly purchased pin to go back into your plug?

jkhsv
07-07-2012, 10:42 AM
There are 2 orange wires. A thick one and a thin one. The flash on my iPhone has distorted the color of what looks like a 3rd orange wire but is brown.

So which orange wire to use as nobody has mentioned 2 orange wires before ?

Sic Emo
07-07-2012, 11:45 AM
It's the thin orange wire which is number 13 I will take some pictures of the pins today it was tricky to remove the pin there is a white strip on the bottom of the plug thats needs to be lifted up it on comes up a short amount then you need a very fine flat screw driver to lift the plastic clip above the pin. I will put pictures up soon

Sic Emo
07-07-2012, 02:04 PM
So I got some orange wire and re did it this morning here's some pictures, I put the switch in the glovebox below the USB socket I ran the switch wires along the USB cable in spiral wrap for a bit of protection.391139123913391439153916

Sic Emo
07-07-2012, 02:06 PM
3917391839193920

Sic Emo
07-07-2012, 02:08 PM
Hope these pictures help 3921
This is the white clip that has to be lifted up slightly before you try to push the pin out

crackelaktor
07-07-2012, 05:16 PM
Hope these pictures help 3921
This is the white clip that has to be lifted up slightly before you try to push the pin out

http://img.tapatalk.com/7ca887b1-e20e-3213.jpg

All done now. Works a treat. Best of both worlds with a factory look.

Helicopter7
08-07-2012, 12:29 AM
OK all done took about two hours, which was mostly spent stuffing around trying lowering the glovbox enough without breaking anything to get to the plug. Once the plug was removed, I cut the thin orange wire as instructed by Y.B.SHY and soldered a figure 8 cable on either end, heat shrinked and cable tied to make in neat. Pushed the glove box back up and finally ran the figure 8 along inside the LHS of the console and into the armrest where I put the switch.

So in the end, little effort and no cost. I tried the E3 and it sounded very nice, with enough V8 sound without having to tramp the throttle anymore to get the damn bi-modal to open.

In fact the best part is when you back off the throttle and down shift the auto, it sounds really awsome ! I just left the EDI set to normal mode, so when the wife drives the car I simply turn the switch ON (ON= EDI in control, OFF = exhaust always open regardless of the EDI setting) but then again she is a bit of a rev head (owned an XU-1) so she may just leave it OFF anyway.......:)

Again a speciall thenks to Y.B.SHY for sharing the information.

Cheers

crackelaktor
08-07-2012, 05:39 AM
Hi Guys,

That is my post on the my.hsv forum. I can ***ure you it works and if your in Melbourne I'm more than happy to show you in person.

Cheers

Y.B.SHY, you are a legend. Thanks for what was an awesome piece of info sharing. Such an easy mod to do too. :) thanks EORS for posting the link too.

zclubby
08-07-2012, 09:00 AM
Worked a treat. Mine is all done too. Thanks again

Y.B.SHY
10-07-2012, 09:21 PM
Glad to contribute to the forum, I've been using it for years as a source of information and finally had something to contribute.

Curious to know how the drone is on an auto, has anyone experanced it?

Helicopter7
11-07-2012, 06:58 PM
Glad to contribute to the forum, I've been using it for years as a source of information and finally had something to contribute.

Curious to know how the drone is on an auto, has anyone experanced it?

It's not too bad I just keep it over 2100 rpm. Anyway the switch is right next to me so I can turn it off if I'm driving gently.

All good. On a side note the Holden dealer wanted approx $560 for the workshop manual on CD, which hopefully included the complete electrical wiring diagram. I said no thanks, I would be prepared to pay $150 or so but that amount is a rip off.

So thanks for the information

coopadoo
20-08-2012, 02:47 PM
Hi Sic Emo, Where did u get the molex plug / socket connectors from ?? I cant find the same size connectors to go back in the EDI plug ?? By the way awesome mod - luv your work :-)

Andrew_02
20-08-2012, 09:07 PM
Bi Modal exhaust for anyone looking at buying one after market not sure why you would but in searching for some 105 mm intake pipe i came across a company that sells the by bi modal valve, all you would need to do is cut the pipe an insert the valve it looked exactly the same so it uses air from the i guess manifold area to work. if this is not old news im happy to go back over my searches and find the company.
ive also read people throwing these systems out for high performance setups, another cheaper option.

BEAT5WALKN
30-09-2012, 11:51 PM
Another happy customer. Thanks very much Y.B.SHY and all who kept the feedback flowing.

Awesome result and if I can do it, I can ***ure anyone else weary about tackling the mod themselves to give it a bash...bloody easy.:smile:

R3DGTS
08-10-2012, 05:26 PM
Hey guys I'm having a crack at this mod at the moment but can't seem to get the pin out of the loom. I've lifted the white clip as previously mentioned but it still won't budge. Did you guys pull at the wire or did you attempt to push it through from the other end with a small screw driver?
Thanks for all the info thus far. Found removing the glove box quite easy

crackelaktor
08-10-2012, 05:51 PM
Hey guys I'm having a crack at this mod at the moment but can't seem to get the pin out of the loom. I've lifted the white clip as previously mentioned but it still won't budge. Did you guys pull at the wire or did you attempt to push it through from the other end with a small screw driver?
Thanks for all the info thus far. Found removing the glove box quite easy

I know it sounds scary, but I just cut the wire and have had no issues since.

R3DGTS
08-10-2012, 05:59 PM
Yea I'm leaning that way. I just installed the switch and I'm getting impatient. Thanks for the re***urance!

R3DGTS
08-10-2012, 08:35 PM
Just got back from a spin with my new 'always-open' bimodal exhaust! M***ive thanks to everyone who has contributed to this great thread.
It took me roughly 3 hours but that was spent fussing over little things and talking myself into cutting the wire (thanks to Crackelaktor for the encouragement). I'll post some photos in coming days.

NatCapGTS
18-10-2012, 07:07 PM
Hey R3DGTS - what type of switch did you use?

NatCapGTS
20-10-2012, 05:54 PM
Talking to my brother re the bi modal tweak (he has a FPV 335GT - yeah I know....) says all you have do on the GT is unplug a solenoid in the engine bay - 2 minute job apparently! Is this possible on the HSV?

BEAT5WALKN
20-10-2012, 09:54 PM
I believe that has been attempted but was not successful.

NatCapGTS
31-10-2012, 08:43 PM
I'm going to have a crack at this mod but was wondering what the effect is on the EDI display for bi modal when the switch is over-riding it? Eg if you have the EDI set to off or idle does the display show this, but in fact the exhaust is fully open?

Also wondering if its possible to put the switch up under the climate control controls near the storage space - there appears to be space but not sure what wiring is up there?

BEAT5WALKN
01-11-2012, 02:07 AM
The EDI displays as per norm, according to the setting you have it on but of course will perform or for a better word, sound as per your preference on the over-ride switch.

regarding the placement of switch, I ***ume you could put the switch were ever you would like for as long as you have the length of wire and the willingness to dismantle all the bits to get it there.

Hope that answers your question

Enjoy

NatCapGTS
08-11-2012, 07:35 PM
Love the sound of the crackle and pop of the bi modal mod when changing gears!! Doesn't have the rumble or snarl of an aftermarket but sounds great in a tunnel or underground car park ;)

R3DGTS
08-11-2012, 09:32 PM
Sorry Nat. Didn't see your post there. I used a cheap 12 volt switch from supercheap auto

Andrew_02
15-11-2012, 09:02 PM
I used the smallest black rocker switch with a 5mm yellow light and drilled at 12mmm **** in the drivers side panel just above your left knee position, the wires are easy to push through behind the radio system. do be carefull with the edi wires attached to the glovebox. i had to remove mine because of being a tight a and not using enough wire, second time the full in out job was about 30 minutes. i recall something about the glovebox hindges? my glovebox came away in one piece, on a grange the centre airvent may need to come out a few mm, you can just pull the full vent system out no retainers because its about 10cm long/a push fit. I ordered the switch from spare parts GHM for $10 out of their parts book, id recommend you buy a kmart type auto electricains wire joiners pack. If you use the same type of switch with three conections use the two switch conections on the light end and the light will come on when the bi modal is on, i used the smallest light 5mm any bigger light would be crap at night.
The switch idea is great thanks...............

jkhsv
29-11-2012, 07:29 PM
I put my switch in the recess under the bar which is opposite the handbrake and looks similar, below the MRC switch.

That way you cant see it but I can get my hand between the seat and the console to flick it on / off....

jkhsv
30-11-2012, 02:28 PM
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/2011_hsv_e3_interior_updates_01-4c97f73768721-m_610x450-Copy.jpg

up2nogood
30-11-2012, 03:24 PM
Thanks Y.B.SHY. You saved me a lot of fooling around trying to make this happen!
Thanks also to JKHSV for the location idea, that's where my switch lives too.
Overall, a half hour job.

Here's what the dash looks like after removing the silver trim, side panel, lower panel and glove box:
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff134/up2nogood72/IMG_10271.jpg

Here's the location of the EDI controller:
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff134/up2nogood72/IMG_10281.jpg

Here's the plug and wire to mess with:
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff134/up2nogood72/IMG_10291.jpg

Here's the wire cut and the connecting wires being soldered and covered. Taped the w**** lot up when I was finished:
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff134/up2nogood72/IMG_10301.jpg

And then bung it all back together.

fleetz
18-12-2012, 01:19 PM
Wondering how you got the switch into the console? The actual mod is documented extremely well.

How do you get the **** for the switch and the switch physically mounted?

Cheers,

Fleetz

BEAT5WALKN
18-12-2012, 06:14 PM
Take the switch you have chosen into a hardware shop and buy the circle drill bit that has the same dimensions as the switch... hope that's what u meant

up2nogood
18-12-2012, 08:46 PM
Pretty much this ^
Run the wires down behind the console, and tuck them under the plastic trim that clips on immediately below the main console. The bit that meets the carpet and runs from the dash to the back of the console.
I made sure my seat was well out of the way and then drilled it on an angle and rounded out the **** properly with a smaller drill bit being VERY careful.
The switch is held in place by a nut that tightens it against the plastic you've drilled through. I used a tiny circuit switch from Jaycar, not a big driving light one.

fleetz
03-01-2013, 04:14 PM
Looking to do this Bi-modal mod but with a twist. Hoping some one could let me know how much space there is where the wiring is done on or around the Motec connector. The reason I ask is I want to install a wireless remote control relay instead of a switch.

I would prefer not to drill a **** in the console. The wireles remote relays I am seeing online are around 60mm x 40mm x 25mm ish jiffy box type construction. Then you have a FOB type remote control to activate the relay.

Because there is active electronics in the wireless receiver I would be looking for a switched 12 volt circuit hopefully on that same connector going to the Motec unit. just wondering if Y.B.SHY you saw any 12v circuits switched when the ignition on switch is on?

The total current draw I am seeing with the relay latched on is around 70mA to 100mA so no big issue .....I would have a separate in line slow blow fuse on the wireless RX module to protect the wireless RX circuit/car circuit.

It would be nice if I could find out if there is sufficient space to locate the wireless RX box as I suspect it is pretty tight for space before ordering the wireless RX?

Cheers,

Fleetz

Y.B.SHY
04-01-2013, 05:32 PM
Hey Fleetz, of the top of my head the thick Orange wire @ the opposite end of the connector is switched (ignition) power with the black wire below being earth.

I will be doing another mod in a few days and can confirm this if you need.

As for the location of wireless receiver there is plenty of space around the EDI unit - Just remember to secure it to something as you don't want any rattles... ;)

fleetz
04-01-2013, 06:34 PM
Hey Fleetz, of the top of my head the thick Orange wire @ the opposite end of the connector is switched (ignition) power with the black wire below being earth.

I will be doing another mod in a few days and can confirm this if you need.

As for the location of wireless receiver there is plenty of space around the EDI unit - Just remember to secure it to something as you don't want any rattles... ;)

Thanks Y.B.Shy,

That would be great if you could check if the other thicker orange cable and the black are switched with the ignition that would be fantastic.

Regards,

Fleetz

fleetz
16-01-2013, 06:25 PM
Hey Fleetz, of the top of my head the thick Orange wire @ the opposite end of the connector is switched (ignition) power with the black wire below being earth.

I will be doing another mod in a few days and can confirm this if you need.

As for the location of wireless receiver there is plenty of space around the EDI unit - Just remember to secure it to something as you don't want any rattles... ;)

Hi Y B SHY

Just wondering if you got a chance to check the thicker Orange and Black lead at the other of the connector is switched ignition? Sorry I PM'ed you this too just not sure if that got through with the forum issue that have been happening.

I have selected the wireless RX and TX FOB controller should it be switched 12v ignition.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Fleetz

fleetz
20-01-2013, 01:37 PM
Have ordered the wireless relay control system and am hoping to put it on some time over the Australia Day weekend.

The relay in the RX is rated at 8 Amps Y B SHY or anyone else that has done the mod can are you aware if the orange wire that is used to control the exhaust solenoid is directly controlling the solenoid or is there another control circuit?

What I am trying to establish is the rated 8Amp relay contacts in the wireless receiver going to be sufficient?

Actually I am trying to get my head around the fact that the contact must be open circuit for the BiModal soleniod to actuate full exhaust flow. Therefore when the relay contacts are on the EDI system returns to normal operation. So I deduce when the soleniod is not energised the baffles it controls in both BiModal mufflers are in the open position and require energising when the EDI system has normal control.

So soleniod on baffle = BiModal in exhaust "mute" mode and when soleniod off = BiModal baffle is in exhuast is in full flow mode.

Therefore the contacts in the relay in the wireless reciever I will be installing will need to handle whatever current the Motec systems is sending via the orange wire. Any idea what that current is? What currents switches have you guys been fitting?

Y B SHY did not you happen to look into the current through the orange cable when you initially did the mod?

Regards,

Fleetz

fleetz
03-02-2013, 09:42 PM
I used the smallest black rocker switch with a 5mm yellow light and drilled at 12mmm **** in the drivers side panel just above your left knee position, the wires are easy to push through behind the radio system. do be carefull with the edi wires attached to the glovebox. i had to remove mine because of being a tight a and not using enough wire, second time the full in out job was about 30 minutes. i recall something about the glovebox hindges? my glovebox came away in one piece, on a grange lthe centre airvent may need to come out a few mm, you can just pull the full vent system out no retainers because its about 10cm plong/a push fit. I ordered the switch from spare parts GHM for $10 out of their parts book, id recommend you buy a kmart type auto electricains wire joiners pack. If you use the same type of switch with three conections use the two switch conections on the light end and the light will come on when the bi modal is on, i used the smallest light 5mm any bigger light would be crap at night.
The switch idea is great thanks...............


Have ordered the wireless relay control system and am hoping to put it on some time over the Australia Day weekend.

The relay in the RX is rated at 8 Amps Y B SHY or anyone else that has done the mod can are you aware if the orange wire that is used to control the exhaust solenoid is directly controlling the solenoid or is there another control circuit?

What I am trying to establish is the rated 8Amp relay contacts in the wireless receiver going to be sufficient?

Actually I am trying to get my head around the fact that the contact must be open circuit for the BiModal soleniod to actuate full exhaust flow. Therefore when the relay contacts are on the EDI system returns to normal operation. So I deduce when the soleniod is not energised the baffles it controls in both BiModal mufflers are in the open position and require energising when the EDI system has normal control.

So soleniod on baffle = BiModal in exhaust "mute" mode and when soleniod off = BiModal baffle is in exhuast is in full flow mode.

Therefore the contacts in the relay in the wireless reciever I will be installing will need to handle whatever current the Motec systems is sending via the orange wire. Any idea what that current is? What currents switches have you guys been fitting?

Y B SHY did not you happen to look into the current through the orange cable when you initially did the mod?

Regards,

Fleetz


Firstly thanks again to Y B SHY for the info on the BiModal mod.

Finally got around to fitting the wireless relay for control of the BiModal exhaust in my GTS. So no ****s drilled for the actuator switch I simply press a a single button wireless transmitter FOB....like a roller door controller.

Some feedback to other that might want to do the same. The Motec EDI controller doesn't have switched ignition 12vDC....the thick orange and black wired which Y B SHY thought was switch isn't. There is 12vDC supplied to these connections all the time, even with the key out the ignition.

I wanted to have ignition switched 12v for the wireless reciever so went in search....to the left of the rear of the glovebox there is a white AUX connector which is currently unused. The black and brown cables going to this connector has ignition switched 12v....and easy to get too. Just unclip it out and you have some cable play to do what you need to do.

Wired the wireless relay reciever power to the brown and black cables and then the normally closed relay contacts across the thin orange wire on the Motec connector and per Y B SHY's mod and job done.

The wireless reciever relay always defaults to the normally closed position which has the BiModal working in the standard HSV BiModal mode. When I want to open the exhaust up I simply press the wireless key FOB once and the exhaust solenoid is opened fully.....another press of the FOB button and we are back to the HSV mode.

So it always reverts to HSV standard mode from initial ignition on mode. So for servicing I simply remove the key FOB....if I get pulled over for a check simply switching the ignition off will ensure on start up standard BiModal mode is engaged.....of course the key FOB in the car is for my roller door! :mrgreen:

For those interested in which wireless RX and TX FOB I used their http://elsema.com/pcr43301re.htm for the RX and their single button Penta Code FOB http://elsema.com/auto/pentafob.htm# ..... Bout $120 for the pair. Programmed the FOB to the RX which takes a minute after you supply 12v to the RX.

All in all a bit more work and obviously a few more dollars and a nice neat alternative way of doing Y B SHY mod. Took a good two hours or so as there was an hour spent finding the switched 12V. I am an electronics engineer ( retired) so there is some level of required skill to complete the above. If you are handy with a multimeter, soldering, heat shrink etc it is not rocket science.

Hope this help others.

Regards,

Fleetz

E3Senator
23-02-2013, 11:54 PM
Hi guys,
Like this thread thanks for all the info. Completely noob to all this. I recently purchased a manual 2012 E3 Senator in December which has bi-modal. My car has the 6 year extended factory warranty and just a little concerned if something goes wrong down the track that HSV will try to shift the blame. Has anyone had an warranty experience / issues with this mod or suggestion / info they could give me.
Also I am not really confident in doing this mod myself and would like the switch hidden but within reach whilst in the drivers seat if possible. Can anyone help or suggest a quality place where I can have this work done around the central coast area or Sydney?

Thanks in advance. Appreciate it.

jkhsv
24-02-2013, 09:16 AM
Hi guys,
Like this thread thanks for all the info. Completely noob to all this. I recently purchased a manual 2012 E3 Senator in December which has bi-modal. My car has the 6 year extended factory warranty and just a little concerned if something goes wrong down the track that HSV will try to shift the blame. Has anyone had an warranty experience / issues with this mod or suggestion / info they could give me.
Also I am not really confident in doing this mod myself and would like the switch hidden but within reach whilst in the drivers seat if possible. Can anyone help or suggest a quality place where I can have this work done around the central coast area or Sydney?

Thanks in advance. Appreciate it.

Any auto electrician will be able to do this mod for you. Just print out the instructions / pics from here....

fleetz
24-02-2013, 05:20 PM
I agree the mod would be done easily by an auto electrician.

I mention to my HSV dealer what I was proposing with the wireless control I just did and they were not phased. Indeed they have been in contact wanting to have a look and listen! The mod itself if done correctly that is professionally terminated connection in never going to cause an issue.

E3Senator
28-02-2013, 10:03 AM
Appreciate the info guys. Definitely interested in doing this mod and possibly even the way you have done yours Fleetz. I like the idea of not having a switch drilled in etc. A little out of my league as far as understanding all that needs to be done to achieve this though haha. Be nice to hear that growl a little better! May see if i can find a reputable auto electrician around my way so that the switch is professional and looks the goods too. Was just concerned about the warranty.

SSVGUY
07-03-2013, 10:16 PM
Would it be possible to install a bimodal into an SSV? i've seen all this talk of edi controllers ect. but is there a way to byp*** all that?

jkhsv
08-03-2013, 10:46 AM
Would it be possible to install a bimodal into an SSV? i've seen all this talk of edi controllers ect. but is there a way to byp*** all that?

You can buy the HM Headers catback with bi modal mufflers (or just rear mufflers) and it comes with its own controller !!!

http://www.hmheaders.com.au/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=8&cat=Bi%2DModal+Systems

fleetz
09-03-2013, 09:00 AM
Before I modified the standard bi-modal system on my E3 GTS with Y B SHY mod albeit mine has the wireless control twist I looked at changing the exhaust to and XForce exhaust system with Varex remote controllable exhaust. http://www.xforce.com.au/about-varex-remote-control-sports-muffler.php

The local SA rep for XForce kindly showed the system which was installed on their VE ute. It worked well and with the wireless remote control gave control from reasonably quite to race mod. In my case I thought I would mod the standard system and see what mongrel improvement was to had before considering going with a complete exhaust change with a Varex system. I have to say the standard system which is on all the time via the mod does it for me. Plenty of mongrel V8 now and I could not justify shelling out $3k ish on a new system.

Yes there may have been a few extra Killa Wasps with a 3" or even a 2.5" but bang for the buck spending a hundred dollars on the wireless system I installed to open up the standard GTS exhaust through the rev range does the trick for me.

Fleetz

d488y2
03-05-2013, 06:40 PM
Byp*** button installed today, nice and loud now!!!!

HSV085
04-05-2013, 09:04 AM
Byp*** button installed today, nice and loud now!!!!

Wait til your cam goes in ;)

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2

mickwebs
18-11-2013, 11:20 AM
So I got some orange wire and re did it this morning here's some pictures, I put the switch in the glovebox below the USB socket I ran the switch wires along the USB cable in spiral wrap for a bit of protection.391139123913391439153916
Hi Sorry to resurrect this thread but I would like to know where to get the pins from and what brand they are so I do not need to cut the wire.

jkhsv
18-11-2013, 11:49 AM
Try http://www.jaycar.com.au/

Count Vlad
18-11-2013, 08:41 PM
Hi Sic, Ive got a 2010 SV R8, its got the bi modal exhaust, my electrician installed a switch under the dash which opens up its up fully when turned on. Flick the switch it goes back to factory normal (good for when the missus gets in) When open Ive found i get a better throttle response, seems abit quicker to.The exhaust sounds a bit deeper to.

Audi
18-11-2013, 09:02 PM
Count Vlad how can I do that in my e2?

Count Vlad
18-11-2013, 09:05 PM
Mine is a E2 as well. The electrician took about 30 all up , done.

325R8
21-11-2013, 02:02 PM
Sorry if this a stupid question, but when you switch the mod to off (closes the valves) will it go back to the standard edi bimodal? As in you can control the idle on/off by the screen. Looking to do this to my e3 r8 which I will post up soon. Thanks

cdaveyb
21-11-2013, 02:25 PM
Sorry if this a stupid question, but when you switch the mod to off (closes the valves) will it go back to the standard edi bimodal? As in you can control the idle on/off by the screen. Looking to do this to my e3 r8 which I will post up soon. Thanks

Your not actually turning it on or off but more descriptive is turning from non EDI control(valves open) to EDI control. All the mod is doing is interrupting the control signal from the EDI telling the valves to close

jkhsv
21-11-2013, 03:10 PM
This is a video of my E3 GTS with cam, 1&7/8" Sureflo ceramic coated headers, 100 CSPI Ballistic racing cats and HM Headers 3" bimodal catback with switch installed to override the bimodal.

Click on the image to play the video....

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/th_20120314172609.jpg (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/20120314172609.mp4)

FollowTheSapper
21-11-2013, 05:02 PM
This is a video of my E3 GTS with cam, 1&7/8" Sureflo ceramic coated headers, 100 CSPI Ballistic racing cats and HM Headers 3" bimodal catback with switch installed to override the bimodal.

Click on the image to play the video....

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/th_20120314172609.jpg (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/20120314172609.mp4)

Nice, Can definitely hear the difference. Exhausts are one of those things that sound 100% better in real life compared to any video! If only there was a way to capture the real sound.

jkhsv
21-11-2013, 05:10 PM
Nice, Can definitely hear the difference. Exhausts are one of those things that sound 100% better in real life compared to any video! If only there was a way to capture the real sound.

Yeah I posted the video to distinguish the differences in the bimodal. It doesn't sound anything like standing there.

When closed it was legal but not when open....as the DP of the yard that bought it from me found out :D

325R8
21-11-2013, 05:39 PM
Sounds great! Hopefully my stock bimodal sounds alright with this mod otherwise walkinshaws 3" bimodal will be on the cards

Count Vlad
21-11-2013, 09:34 PM
Hi Neil, yes when i flick the switch it goes back to working like it did originally. I dont control it thru the EDI screen.I dont think you could actually because mine does not go thru the computer at all. So it does not need to be reprogrammed at all.

cdaveyb
22-11-2013, 03:19 PM
Just installed the byp*** switch into my R8' great results.

Audi
22-11-2013, 06:59 PM
I tested over a week and found that with bi-modal off my manual GTS had a bit to much drone for me. Coming from a VZ Clubsport with full SS Manta system it just didn't do it for me. I'm happy just to keep Bi-modal on at this stage.

cdaveyb
22-11-2013, 07:43 PM
It's all about choice I suppose. Having the ability to chose if you want it turned on today but turned off tomorrow......

Audi
22-11-2013, 07:54 PM
Yeah. That's is a totally different setup to me really. I had to get under the car etc each time. So I can see how having it at the flick of a switch would be good.

325R8
25-11-2013, 06:13 PM
I've just installed the switch into my e3 r8, while it does sound better then stock it still doesn't have that nice v8 rumble when accelerating and down gearing. I also get a bit to much drone for my liking.

Just a question to the guys that have used this mod on an aftermarket bimodal system; 2.5", 3". Does it sound like a system without bimodal? As in, it has a nice note to it at all times and no drone. I'm looking to get the walky 3" bimodal catback and want it to sound like a non bimodal system if that makes sense

hanson1128
06-12-2013, 01:54 AM
This is a video of my E3 GTS with cam, 1&7/8" Sureflo ceramic coated headers, 100 CSPI Ballistic racing cats and HM Headers 3" bimodal catback with switch installed to override the bimodal.

Click on the image to play the video....

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/th_20120314172609.jpg (http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/jkgmh/E3%20GTS/20120314172609.mp4)

HI jkhsv

Any chance you are at Brisbane? Might want to have listen of it in real life. Mine is with Factory Bi-Modal, looking for something like this in QLD.....
Is this set up will causing drone when at low rpm cruising or on the highway?
HM Headers 3" bimodal catback will be able to bolt on any brand of cat back system?

jkhsv
06-12-2013, 09:58 AM
Sorry hanson I sold the GTS before I moved to QLD.... Mine was cammed as well but there was little to no drone so to speak...

If you want to retain bimodal you can go the HM catback or X Force Varex mufflers.

I had a switch put into the bimodal circuitry so I could over-ride the bimodal and leave it open all the time or flick the switch back and the bimodal ran off the EDI settings....

hanson1128
06-12-2013, 07:22 PM
Sorry hanson I sold the GTS before I moved to QLD.... Mine was cammed as well but there was little to no drone so to speak...

If you want to retain bimodal you can go the HM catback or X Force Varex mufflers.

I had a switch put into the bimodal circuitry so I could over-ride the bimodal and leave it open all the time or flick the switch back and the bimodal ran off the EDI settings....

HI,

Okay.. thats fine.. mine is cammed too.. and big cam so looking for something that can close and open the valve to make it quiet sometimes.. but prefer it works individual unlike the factory one.. factory one bit retarded..
Was ur GTS manual or an auto?
Yea.. i'm considering to buy HM rear Bi Modal muffler or the X Force Varex mufflers or Sureflo 3 setting rear muffler somethings like Varex.. but i have heard that Varex are easy to break..? but they sounds great and have 3 setting are kinda easy to use and select. oh btw.. do i need to buy Bi-Modal RPM Module to use HM rear Bi Modal muffler or just retain and use the factory one?

markost
03-03-2014, 10:34 PM
I'm actually wanting to do the opposite of most of the posts here. I'm trying to find a way to get the Driver Mode settings apart from "performance" and "off" to leave the Bi-Modal mufflers closed. I have the Walkinshaw W497 pack on a Gen F and the bigger pipes up front make the thing really noisy when the Bi-Modal butterflies are open under full acceleration. Just wondering if HSV will remap the Bi-Modal settings at the dealership to allow for this. The Walkinshaw resonators are a bit loud for me under normal driving conditions hence keeping the Bi-Modals. Don't get me wrong, the sound with the butterflies closed is deeper and louder than my E3 with the butterflies open.

Anyone here heard of HSV remapping the Bi-Modal curves ??? Walkinshaw can't do it as the HSV/Motec system apparently governs these curves and HSV aren't too fussed on people playing with their stuff.

VFR8
03-03-2014, 11:04 PM
If Walkinshaw won't take your money to do it, I doubt HSV will.

Given Walkgoshaw should have a pretty good relationship with Motec etc.

Audi
05-03-2014, 08:29 PM
What is the easiest way to keep my e2 bi-modal system open?
I've reversed the one way valve behind the engine before but it's fiddly. I've unplugged the pipes that plug into the valves but I can't find a perfect sealing plug for this method. Any other easier ways to achieve this?

VFR8
05-03-2014, 08:44 PM
It sounds like it's the same as VF, so just extend the engine bay one?

4 cable ties and a two fittings would do it. Fittings you can get from Bunnings or similar as it's essentially a male-male adapter that's needed and a garden 'drip' watering system would use something pretty close i'd guess.

Andrew_02
05-03-2014, 09:00 PM
a small screw and yes stock garden retic for micro spray block the actuator to stop crap and water if you want
to get under the car and remove the bi modal vacuum hose, but why do that when you can
do a quick search on this site and add a by p*** switch I turn it off for the wife and on when I drive
off again if I go near an RBT, but don't think NT has that sort of stuff!!
think its the thin purple cable in a large wire harness behind the glove box, you need to remove the
trim air vent and glove box, sure someone has done it to a VF, but sounds like you would not need to
on the GTS. get someone to drive your car with half throttle past you with bi modal on and off and you
might decide its more than loud enough outside the cabin sound proofing I was very surprised with
a WM grange! the gts must be a beast outside with or without a tune. cheers

VFR8
05-03-2014, 09:22 PM
Ah yeah, true... I do remember reading there was a mod so you can control it in-cabin rather than swapping over all the time for VE

Audi
05-03-2014, 09:31 PM
I've got and used these but I'm not 100% confident that they seal perfectly. Really don't want any fine dust getting sucked into the engine. Also on the E2 there's no need for the cable ties as with the vacuum hoses unplugged the valves are open by default.
http://i61.tinypic.com/30aqk8x.jpg


Ah yeah, true... I do remember reading there was a mod so you can control it in-cabin rather than swapping over all the time for VE

A link to this would be awesome if anyone has info.

OooBeeNice
05-03-2014, 09:37 PM
Can anyone confirm if they have done this mid on a Gen-F yet? If so was the wire the same colour?

VFR8
05-03-2014, 09:38 PM
lol not those connectors... I go to Bunnings once a week, I know what I mean so i'll get a pic for you.


Found the thread on the HSV-HSV forum thing from Y.B.SHY - He is on here too from posts I've seen so likely in the depths of this forum as well:

http://my.hsv.com.au/myHSV/forum/topics.aspx?ID=301



Hi Guys, Thought it was about time I came back and let you all know how to modify the EDI to allow the Bi-Modal to remain open whenever you like without having to disconnect the vacuumed lines and losing the EDI functionality to adjust the Bi-Modal.

It's actuall really simple and you only need a 12 volt switch and 1-2 meters of wire depending where you want the switch.

I've thought about keeping this information to myself but as you all have been helpfully to me and other member of this forum here goes.... ;)

Step 1. Remove the glovebox - There are 2 screws below the glovebox facing up and 5 screws in the glovebox, 3 facing up and 2 hidden behind the plastic caps either side of the glovebox. The drivers side cover goes around the boot release button.

Step 2. Make sure you key is out of the ignition and the radio is off. Or you might be heading into Holden to get the EDI reset.

Step 3. Look up (and smile) and you will see a small black box conveniently labeled 'HSV Motec EDI' discconnect the main (the large one) wireing harnes and cut the tape away exposing the wireing.

Step 4. Locate the thin orange wire ( the thick orange wire is the main 12v supply) and cut it in half.

Step 5. Connect your switch (using the 1-2meter wire as above) to the orange wires. One end of the orange wire goes to one side of the switch and, well you guest it... Connect the other end of the orange wire to the other side of the switch.

Step 6. Mount your switch (some people may want to swap step 5 and 6 around) somewhere handy. I mounted mine behind the stero fascia directly above where the ashtray woul go. This offers easy access but also hids the switch so no one knows about it ;)

Step 7. Reconnect the EDI wireing harness and install the glovebox.

Spep 8. Enjoy..... ;)

p.s. if you're in Melbourne and don't feel confident doing this but want the ability to fully control your Bi-Modal send me a PM as I'm more than happy to do the mod for you. It only takes 15-30 minutes.

Enjoy all.

Audi
05-03-2014, 09:41 PM
lol not those connectors... I go to Bunnings once a week, I know what I mean so i'll get a pic for you.


Champ.


My E2 doesn't have EDI so would any of that guide be the same?

VFR8
05-03-2014, 09:46 PM
Oh... Yeah that would be a problem. Still learning which HSVs have what :oops:

Until my Bunnings trip :D

Audi
19-03-2014, 01:31 PM
Just a quick follow up post for anyone reading with a series 1 or 2 Bi-modal system I have found these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8mm-shut-off-valve-pneumatic-vacuum-8mm-push-type-b303-/110845422012?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19cee6e9bc

You can just put it on the line in an accessible area and manually have an on/off setup for about $20. Much easier than flipping around the one way valve that's behind the engine on these models.

GenF-GTS
11-05-2014, 09:30 PM
Does this work for the VF as well?



OK all done took about two hours, which was mostly spent stuffing around trying lowering the glovbox enough without breaking anything to get to the plug. Once the plug was removed, I cut the thin orange wire as instructed by Y.B.SHY and soldered a figure 8 cable on either end, heat shrinked and cable tied to make in neat. Pushed the glove box back up and finally ran the figure 8 along inside the LHS of the console and into the armrest where I put the switch.

So in the end, little effort and no cost. I tried the E3 and it sounded very nice, with enough V8 sound without having to tramp the throttle anymore to get the damn bi-modal to open.

In fact the best part is when you back off the throttle and down shift the auto, it sounds really awsome ! I just left the EDI set to normal mode, so when the wife drives the car I simply turn the switch ON (ON= EDI in control, OFF = exhaust always open regardless of the EDI setting) but then again she is a bit of a rev head (owned an XU-1) so she may just leave it OFF anyway.......:)

Again a speciall thenks to Y.B.SHY for sharing the information.

Cheers

GenF-GTS
12-05-2014, 01:28 AM
Well I found the under bonnet valve that you reverse to keep the exhaust open, it certainly is louder now.

Might sound strange but my verdict is out, not sure if i like it or not, at low throttle it can vibrate stuff inside the car, at high rpm it's fine but it would have opened the valves at that point anyway.

Only way i feel "at the moment" is it's better for take offs but nor cruising or low throttle......i'll leave it a few days and see how i feel at least it's easy enough to switch back to normal.

RRR8
19-05-2014, 06:47 PM
As some of the last posts mention, any rpm under 2000rpm drones. Especially in an auto.

Has anyone worked out how to choose the desired rpm you'd like it to open at? I've heard people talking about using an rpm monitor attached to a coil pack to block the EDI when the engine hits the desired rpm (let's call it 2000rpm).

Would this be something an auto elec could do?

GenF-GTS
19-05-2014, 10:13 PM
I haven't had a decent look yet however as I understand it the valves are electrically operated by a vacuum solenoid, best bet would be to put a switch in on the control wire even a remote controlled switch for open/close.

As for adjusting the rpm you would have yo hack the EDI, the vacuum wouldn't be an option as it's just a simple valve in the system when the engine sucks air hard enough the valve closes which then triggers it to open.

AR8317
19-05-2014, 11:46 PM
you can put a switch in for the gen f gts but be warned you bimodal may never work through the
edi setup again.
i have a switch that opens and closes the valve but it is ether open or closed all the time depending on the switch position
and this is how i like it :D

Dan88
23-05-2014, 02:03 AM
From what I've heard only way you can have another setting on the bimodal is get a switch wired into the edi harness so you can cut it in and out of the circuit, not sure if this works as I haven't really researched into I've just disconnected and plugged the hoses and love the sound I have OTR, headers, hi flow cats, 3" bimodal cat back and a 224/230 cam. If I was to do it again I wouldn't of bothered with the bimodal cat back but then again better to have it and not need/want it than to not have it and need/want it.

Kakodaemon
30-08-2017, 09:19 AM
Did this mod on my E3 GTS and really like the sound it makes all through the rev range without being too loud. IT will hopefully keep me satisfied until i can afford something more substantial :) A big thanks to Y.B.SHY for a rundown on how to do this and up2nogood for providing some really good pictures and also thanks to everyone who contributed their experiences which gave me the confidence to actually pull apart half the car and cut wires.

I have noticed though when i have the valves always open there is a significant power loss compared to having the EDI control the valves when in "normal" mode.

It really is noticeable and i was wondering if anyone else who has done this mod experienced this at all?

bigwheels
29-09-2017, 09:06 PM
can anyone tell me if bi modal exhaust ve gts 2010 can be totally turned off or if a fuse can be pulled if so what fuse if someone could help please thanks all

Kakodaemon
02-10-2017, 08:33 AM
can anyone tell me if bi modal exhaust ve gts 2010 can be totally turned off or if a fuse can be pulled if so what fuse if someone could help please thanks all

Read this entire thread and you will know how to do it page 12 i think has pictures to also help.
It is pretty easy once you remove the glove box.

If you do it let me know if you notice any power loss when the valves are open compared to having the EDI control it.

Audi
04-10-2017, 01:41 PM
Theres no power loss i've felt

Kakodaemon
05-10-2017, 08:30 AM
Theres no power loss i've felt

really? None at all?

Maybe it is just me but if i gun it with the EDI controlling the valves it just seems a lot quicker and smoother and feels sort of sluggish when i do the same with the valves open.

maybe i'm just crazy.. i'll try some more experimenting with it. Thanks Audi.

NZ EVLHSV
05-10-2017, 08:55 AM
I haven't noticed a difference either way myself. I can't see how the flaps opening and closing would improve HP, especially as they are right at the end of the exhaust

Kakodaemon
05-10-2017, 12:56 PM
I haven't noticed a difference either way myself. I can't see how the flaps opening and closing would improve HP, especially as they are right at the end of the exhaust

I don't see how it could either but i swear i can feel a difference. I even took a friend for a spin 2 weekends ago and he also noticed it so but maybe we are both crazy :confused:

I don't think it is something i can prove with a video or anything it is just a noticeable feeling.

Thanks NZ EVLHSV

NZ EVLHSV
05-10-2017, 01:37 PM
I don't see how it could either but i swear i can feel a difference. I even took a friend for a spin 2 weekends ago and he also noticed it so but maybe we are both crazy :confused:

I don't think it is something i can prove with a video or anything it is just a noticeable feeling.

Thanks NZ EVLHSV

I think you both must be crazy haha. Are you talking about full throttle being slower with the fuse pulled out? Because under any load/throttle the flaps would be open regardless on what setting you had the bimodal on, or if you had it disabled

Kakodaemon
05-10-2017, 02:54 PM
I think you both must be crazy haha. Are you talking about full throttle being slower with the fuse pulled out? Because under any load/throttle the flaps would be open regardless on what setting you had the bimodal on, or if you had it disabled

It's more the acceleration say up to 80km from 0km it seems quicker if i have the EDI controlling the flaps. I haven't actually timed it or watched the speedo when i try it but I can just feel a noticeable difference.. really hard to explain sorry :)

The more I see myself try to explain my experience in writing the more i think it is just me :-D

I have an E3 GTS and have wired a switch in to either have the flaps always open or EDI control them. I didn't touch the fuses.

NZ EVLHSV
05-10-2017, 04:13 PM
100% it would make no difference on full throttle as the flaps would be in the same position


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