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Senator01
07-05-2011, 05:38 PM
Apologies up front if this has been discussed on another thread .... I haven't been able to locate.

Anyway, does anyone have a foolproof and easy way to access all the speakers in an E series. Whilst doors, and rears don't appear to be too hard there might be some insider knowledge of which steps to do first/last, etc..

Also, how do you get to the in dash speakers without breaking something?

I am undertaking a speaker change myself and wanted some help/advice.

Cheers.

Smithers_73
07-05-2011, 05:57 PM
Interested in seeing the reponses for this post too.

What speakers are you going for E3?

Senator01
07-05-2011, 06:14 PM
Interested in seeing the reponses for this post too.

What speakers are you going for E3?

I am looking at Focal ..... they seem to be of high quality and have been used by a few forum members with good reports.

timmy975
07-05-2011, 07:52 PM
Ill be keeping an eye on this thread as I'm looking to up grade all well. Especially how to pull the dash apart to get to the back of the head unit and tweeters.

E3 4 Me, Have you had a chance to listen to them? What kind of up grade are you looking to do??

Cheers,

Senator01
07-05-2011, 08:08 PM
Ill be keeping an eye on this thread as I'm looking to up grade all well. Especially how to pull the dash apart to get to the back of the head unit and tweeters.

E3 4 Me, Have you had a chance to listen to them? What kind of up grade are you looking to do??

Cheers,

I took a leaf from a previous thread and am looking at the Focal K2 Power 165 KRX2 for the front doors/dash and 165 KRC for the rear doors. With replacing the standard subs with Focal Polygl*** 21 V2 8" Subs. WIll try to keep standard Head Unit and hope the standard sub amp will drive the new subs. If not, then upgrade.

I like to keep things toned down a bit. I am not into these big thumping subs that blow the bootlid off.
Will also, after hearing nothing but good reports, be using Dynamat around all speakers.

timmy975
07-05-2011, 08:54 PM
Fair enough. Your right about the Dynamat, it's a must. I'm doing the doors and the w**** back of the cabin. Please keep us informed with how you go and what you end up purchasing.

GR8T
07-05-2011, 10:37 PM
I am looking at Focal ..... they seem to be of high quality and have been used by a few forum members with good reports.

You might want to have a talk to the boy's at Streamline, I was down at the workshop this week and they told me they are doing a full sound system/speaker upgrade on an E3 GTS from Sydney next week.

E3GTS4me
08-05-2011, 09:54 AM
I took a leaf from a previous thread and am looking at the Focal K2 Power 165 KRX2 for the front doors/dash and 165 KRC for the rear doors. With replacing the standard subs with Focal Polygl*** 21 V2 8" Subs. WIll try to keep standard Head Unit and hope the standard sub amp will drive the new subs. If not, then upgrade.

I like to keep things toned down a bit. I am not into these big thumping subs that blow the bootlid off.
Will also, after hearing nothing but good reports, be using Dynamat around all speakers.

focals are great speakers, have a listen to the Polk Audio stuff as well I was very impressed and may swap to them this time over the Focals. As far as using the factory amp....forget it the focals needs a heap of power and the factory amp is lucky to drive the paper cone crap holden put in there

gto461
08-05-2011, 10:24 AM
to get access to all speakers all the trim has to come out...you have to take it all out to dynamat anyway....i am in the process of this with my car at the moment...everything is out from roof lining and pillars to back seats and floor lining....all the car dynamated including floor roof boot and inner and outer doors....used 2 bulk packs (24 sheets) all up plus some dynaliner...its a mission and ya car will be off the road for a few weeeks at the least

Simonk
08-05-2011, 10:46 PM
Ok guys. This is for an E1 so I'm ***uming it comes apart the same as the E3. The dash is like leggo and has no screws.
Start with the panel around the steering wheel. It's just clipped in so start at the bottom, get your fingers behind it and pull down and out. Once you've got the bottom out the top is pretty easy. Then unplug the light switch and remove panel.
The panel to the left of your feet has the long section that runs along the centre consol. Just grab it and pull it downwards. Then grab the panel above it and pull it downwards also. This will reveal wiring of the headunit including the speaker wires.
To get the end panel of the dash off first you need to pull out the end of the trim that runs below the gauges/above the steering wheel. Use your index fingure on the end o the trim and just pull it outwards. You only need to unclip the first clip nearest the door. The rest of the trim can stay in. You can now pull out the end panel. Again just use your fingures to pull it outwards towards the door.
Next you'll need to pull up plastic that runs along the bottom of the door next to the seat. Again just get your fingers under it and pull up. Remove this to reveal what I think is a t25 tors screw holding the kick panel in. Once you undo this, remove the rubber seal to allowanremoval of the panel. Pull the panel towards the rear of the car then out.
Next is the panel above it which has the vent in it. You should be able to get a good grip of the bottom of it and pull it towards you.
For the panel that covers the tweeters, pull it up from the a pillar end. The only issue I had with this panel is that it is clipped to the centre panel that holds the light censor. I found it was easiest to pull this up as well as I couldn't get the two panels apart.

Simonk
08-05-2011, 11:00 PM
Just a note regarding the dash. Most of these clips require quite a violent pull on the panel to get them to unclip. They all seem pretty strong though. I didn't break any like I did in previous models.

For the doors start by unscrewing the screws along the bottom of the door and the ones at the front of the door. I think there's 6 all up for the front doors.
There's a screw in the door arm rest.
Pull out the little cover behind the door handle and remove the t25 screw.
This is all that holds the door on other than all the clips. I successfully removed one door panel without braking any clips but the other door broke 3. I think it's pot luck though. The panel comes off by pulling it towards you. I start at the bottom by grabbing the map pocket and pulling it towards you. once the bottom is unclipped then get your fingers behind the panel near the top and pull it towards you. You need to give it a good yank to get the panel off.

Simonk
08-05-2011, 11:12 PM
I struggled for ages to get a good sound out of my speakers. A ran an amp to my Alpine Type X speakers but couldnt get any b*** out of them with what I thought was the speaker fluttering. Initially I thought it was because of the high level input into the amp. I eventually discovered that the problem was the plastic lining in the door was making all the noise. I ripped it off and sealed up all the ****s in the door with flashing tape from bunnings. This stuff looks a bit like dynamat. It's an aluminium foil with a bitumen based adhesive. This is no substitute for dynamat but for $15 for two doors, it achieved what I wanted, a crystal clear sound with good punchy b***. My point I guess is that you need to at least get rid of the plastic lining. You can do a half ar$ed job like I did for $15 and get an even better sound or go the w**** hog with dynamat.

E3GTS4me
09-05-2011, 07:52 AM
your car should look something like this when its all apart....well mine did lol

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00426.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00426.jpg)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00428.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00428.jpg)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00431.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00431.jpg)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00432.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00432.jpg)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00433.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00433.jpg)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00435.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00435.jpg)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/th_DSC00440.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/rexelent/?action=view&current=DSC00440.jpg)

timmy975
09-05-2011, 07:01 PM
Haha, Are you doing the install your self E3GTS4me?? Do you have a color code for the head unit??

Thanks Simonk for your write up and E3 for the pics. I'll hopefully start mine on the weekend and will post pics if I'm not busy.
Cheers

E3GTS4me
11-05-2011, 05:44 PM
Haha, Are you doing the install your self E3GTS4me?? Do you have a color code for the head unit??

Thanks Simonk for your write up and E3 for the pics. I'll hopefully start mine on the weekend and will post pics if I'm not busy.
Cheers

naa I did the last one but just cant be stuffed this time around....you can actually buy a ready made loom that just plugs in, only problem is I cant remember the website it was on.

Simonk
11-05-2011, 05:55 PM
Hey guys. Here's the speaker wire info. Once you have the drivers side panel off you can see them easily.

RF + Light Green
RF - Dark Green

LF + Brown
LF - Grey

RR + Dark Blue
RR - Light Blue

LR + Brown
LR - Yellow/Red Stripe

E3GTS4me
11-05-2011, 05:59 PM
beat me to it....I was just looking for that info, good job

timmy975
11-05-2011, 06:03 PM
This thread just keeps on delivering. Good job!

Senator01
11-05-2011, 06:43 PM
Thanks for the input so far guys ......... looks as though I have a little bit of work ahead of me ..... but end result should be great.

New car arrives Friday so Senator in the shed and dismantled for the upgrade.

Simonk
11-05-2011, 09:28 PM
It's worth noting regarding those wires above, I got them from LS1.com and used them for my install. When I hooked into them to run into line converter I found the polarity on one of them was backwards. I never figured out if I stuffed it up or one of the front speakers up above is around the wrong way for the +/-. It was probably me but thought it was worth mentioning in case you come across the same issue I had. If you're unsure, play some music and watch the speaker move in and out. It's my understanding that on a drum beat, the cone should be pushed outwards rather than suck in. This needs to be the same on both speakers. Hmmm I think rambling a bit.

Senator01
11-05-2011, 09:31 PM
I am led to beleive the impedence on the standard system is 2 ohms, whereas it is 4 ohms on the Focal speakers, etc....

what issues am I going to have if I just change out speakers and amp and leave the head unit/infotainment system???

timmy975
11-05-2011, 09:47 PM
If your changing your amp and speakers, you can wire them to the correct impedance. Should not have any effect on your head unit as your putting in a new setup.
Sorry if I've misunderstood your question.

gunsrunner
12-05-2011, 01:08 AM
Excellent work so far fella's.
A couple of tips,
a) When you look at the speaker connector in most commodores, the wire going into the top of the T is the positive.

b) You can get a proper panel popper from snap-on :o or you can spread the inner tines on a fork, to make a cheap one, slide in behind the clip and lever out.

c) You can use a AA battery to test the polarity of your speaker, + to +/ _ to _ the speaker will push forward. _ to +/+ to _ will pull the speaker back. This can also be used to make sure you have the right speaker it will make a scratchy/popping noise, don't use bigger than AA. But it wont work through an amp.

d) You have to separate/seal the front of the speaker from the back, if you don't the b*** output from the front will be canceled by the rear of the speaker, this was the problem with the door speaker and why the tape worked, also good to seal the speaker to the door trim around the speaker cone.