View Full Version : Faint scrach in clear coat

27-06-2014, 01:41 PM
Looking for some advice on repairing a couple of faint scratches in my right hand rear doors clear coat.
Yesterday the car just rubbed up against a fig tree. I gave the panel a quick wash and then polish to see the damage.
As I've said the scratchs are very thin and runs for about 2 feet. Running my nail over it my nail doesn't catch so I have been reading this is an easy fix.
I spoke to a panel shop and they wanted $150 cash to get rid of these two faint scratches.
I'm happy to tackle this on my own as long as I get a bit of advice first.

I was looking at using this to romove the scratch and then just a polish to finish it off.

Any advice or tip greatly appreciated.

27-06-2014, 01:50 PM
Wouldn't touch Nu Finish with a 10 foot pole....

Speak to a proper detailer or buy a random orbital buffer and do it yourself.
You don't want to take off more thickness than you have to and you'll want to put a wax or sealant over the top to protect the paint.

27-06-2014, 02:09 PM
I was just planning on doing it by hand, its that faint. I just don't want to end up with swirls.
I haven't used a Nu Finish product for a few years but I always used to use their polish and it worked a treat.
Did you have an issue with one of their products?

27-06-2014, 02:45 PM
I just don't see it as being a quality product, goes in the same basket as those 'car wash in a can' things lol
I'd imagine it would fill the scratch rather than remove/correct it. May give the results you want but reappear after a few washes.

I would clay bar the panel, then use Menzerna polish on them, followed by a decent quality wax or sealant. Problem then is that these panels will probably show up the rest of the car.

If its a deep scratch (even if you can't feel it with your fingernail), you need to use multiple products as the aggressive one will remove the mark but leave minor marks of its own. You then need to step it down to remove those.
The Menzerna PF2500 alone would probably do the job but it's hard to tell without seeing it. Can get that one by itself for $22 but the 3 pack is best value and will be able to fully correct your car.

Always polish and wax in straight lines, up and down and back and forth, not in circles.

27-06-2014, 03:04 PM
I'd imagine it would fill the scratch rather than remove/correct it. May give the results you want but reappear after a few washes.

Yeah reading the Nu Finish site this did come to mind.

Great link white_lie that's exactly what I'm after. I'll be fine just doing it by hand eh? Happy to spend how ever long it takes.
Do you know anywhere in Perth that sells these products over the counter?

27-06-2014, 03:55 PM
I've always got my stuff from them, you'd probably have it by Monday or Tuesday, their postage is pretty quick.

Not sure if there's a local dealer for Menzerna, probably would be but I haven't bothered looking for specialist detailing shops locally.
Will work fine by hand, just use a foam or microfibre applicator, and buff/wipe off with a microfibre towel.

27-06-2014, 07:08 PM
Would you think for a faint scratch I could get away going straight to the 4000grit polish?

27-06-2014, 07:12 PM
I wouldn't think so.
The 4000 is more of a gloss enhancer, I've never noticed it to remove marks using it with a buff, just deepens the finish.

I think the 2500 would be fine on its own, won't leave much marking but may require a couple of passes to get rid of the scratch - which is probably what you want if you're only using one product anyway.

blown vy gts
27-06-2014, 07:28 PM
Meguaiars do a thing for stuff like that it's called x2 awsome stuff

28-06-2014, 08:41 AM
After three years my E2 Clubbie had a few minor scratches probably the same situation as yours. I bought the Menerza polishes with a RO Polisher for #1 son for a birthday a while back from CarCare. I borrowed the gear and gave the car two passes with 2500 and two with 4000. This is what it looked like afterwards.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii85/mjrandom/DSC_7959zz.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/mjrandom/media/DSC_7959zz.jpg.html)

A mate parked his grey Astra too close to one of those spiky fern looking plants, he didn't see it on the passenger side of the car. Put half a dozen deep scratches in the clear up to 700mm long you could feel with you thumb nail. I didn't expect to get more than half out but checked the paint thickness first (plenty) then started with three runs of 800, another three with 2500 then a couple at 4000 and got the lot with still good paint thickness left. I am converted! A good polisher is worth it.

28-06-2014, 12:00 PM
I was one of the first of my friends to use an RO buffer, once they saw my results and how easy they are to use, they have all been converted. You would spend weeks hand polishing to get the results these things are capable of in a few hours.

28-06-2014, 02:55 PM
Yep ... also recommend an RO polisher. Works a treat and a damn sight less effort than by hand. Although I did get the shits with all the polish residue being flung over the areas that I had already done. Anyone have trick to minimise the amount of polish residue? I only use a couple of pea sized dollops of polish at a time.

Try Meguiars Ultimate Compound followed by a polish/wax.

28-06-2014, 04:04 PM
Definitely use less, dab the pad on the surface a few times and start on the surface with the lowest speed, spread the product and then wind the speed up. When you've done your passes, stop it on the surface, don't lift it off

28-06-2014, 05:59 PM
I've never had any residue being flung around using white-lies method above

28-06-2014, 09:01 PM
Good info guys thanks. I just plan to used the 2500 straight out and applying it with a microfiber cloth.
Any tips to avoid leaving swirls? I gather the 4000 then a polish avoids this?

28-06-2014, 10:40 PM
Clay bar it first Audi. If there's contaminants on the paint, you'll only scratch the paint as you rub these around with the polish. Clay barring will ensure you've got a clean surface to begin with

29-06-2014, 09:35 AM
Definitely wash and clay bar before going near the paint with the buff. Use plenty of lube while clay barring. CarCare have a couple of good instructional videos on washing, clay barring and polishing.

29-06-2014, 01:03 PM
Ok cool, I'm pretty sure I still have some clay left.
Should I cut just the area where the scratch is or the whole door? The paint on the car is immaculate bar these scratches.

29-06-2014, 01:06 PM
Double post.

29-06-2014, 02:18 PM
The 2500 should be ok to do just the mark but if it stands out in the sunlight, just do the whole panel

29-06-2014, 07:52 PM
ok, thanks again guys. Sample set ordered so I'll report back probs next weekend when I attack it.

22-07-2014, 12:35 PM
Clear coat scratch gone! Those products worked great White_Lie, thx.

22-07-2014, 12:40 PM
No dramas, excellent news!

22-07-2014, 07:26 PM
Should have said when I was at your house last week Audi and I would have sorted it for you. If it's still noticeable let me know and I'll pop back up.

For those that are looking for a good RO polisher (expensive but excellent) . We use one called Bigfoot.
You will get one cheaper if you google it but here's a link to one site!

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22-07-2014, 08:58 PM
I hear the Bigfoots are great! Can't justify upgrading with the amount I use my das6 though :(

23-07-2014, 09:44 AM
I hear the Bigfoots are great! Can't justify upgrading with the amount I use my das6 though :(

I agree, there's no way I would pay that for a polisher. The best price I could find was $400.
Your one will probably do just as good of job for a fraction of the price :)

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24-07-2014, 09:22 AM
Thx Colin for the offer but they came out easily with a bit of elbow grease.